OVERVIEW

MOUNT YANAPACCHA at 5,460 meters, (17,908 feet) it’s one of the best preparation climbing expeditions before attempting to climb higher mountains in the Cordillera Blanca or Cordillera Huayhuash. Mount yanapaccha is located ahead of LLanganuco valley, neighbor of mount pisco & chopicalqui, it would certainly attract all the attention for a good acclimatization peak. However Yanapaccha is only slightly lower than Pisco but moderately harder to climb. The view from it summit is one of the most gorgeous found anywhere in the range. It could never draw the crowds that Pisco does because of its increased difficulty.

Maximum Altitude 5460m (17,908) feet
Difficulty (AD)
Length 2 days climb or 3/4 days with climb instruction

Brief Itinerary climb program Huaraz – yanapacha – Huaraz

DAY 1: Huaraz – llanganuco valley – portachuelo – moraine camp (4900m).
DAY 2: moraine Camp – attempt yanapaccha summit at (5460m) – moraine camp – portachuelo – llanganuco valley - huaraz

NOTE: CLIMBING INSTRUCTION PROGRAM ON YANAPACCHA AVAILABLE ON REQUEST we can include one or two days climbing instruction on the glacier before the summit

Climbing instruction: The lower portion of the glacier on Yanapaccha is a great area to learn and practice climbing instructions as: glacier travel skills, rope up team procedure, crampon walks, anchors, abseil, on belay systems & rescue procedure. The upper slopes of it are great and suitable for glacier travel because require a climbing techniques & even the last pitch on the west face just before the summit involve extended climbing at about 50° to 60°.

please understand for climbing yanapaccha donkey & donkey driver support are not available, from base camp to high camp that mean you need to carry your personal climbing gear: In your day pack you must carry necessary gears as: extra warm clothing, water proof jacket & pant , water bottle, camera, valuable and personal items such as sunscreen, lip balm, portable solar panel, sunglasses, your snack, personal first aid kit, hiking poles, sleeping bag, sleeping mats (foam) or your thermal rest, ice axe, harness, crampons, climbing boots, carabiners, belay device ATC, helmet & Prussic or slings.

Note: the Porter service will be available from base camp to high camp: they will carry all group or collective climbing equipment as: sleeping tents, food supplies, full kitchen utensils, and protective hard ware as (rope, snow pickets, ice crow, stoves and all supplies necessary to make a safe and strong bid for the summit) they will carry all collective equipment + their personal equipment in their big backpacks, that is the reason you need to carry your personal climbing equipment

SUGGESTION: for climbing tocllaraju we consider collective or group porter support from base camp to moraine camp – to high camp to help with our collective climbing gear. If you want a personal porter to help you with your personal climbing gear is available just only upon request with extra expenses, because simple the personal porter is not considered in our climbing expedition rate.

climbing yanapaccha is not advisable for beginners to climb directly, although it’s ideal summit for advanced level climbers or beginners who wants to receive climbing instruction who are looking for extending their climbing knowledge.

SUGGESTION: please understand before climbing yanapaccha you should complete a good acclimatization process to avoid altitude sickness, let us know to give you a suitable advice or visit our page about acclimatization hikes or multi-day treks.

Note: If you have more time you can extend this climb program by ascending more challenging summits such as:

• Climbing yanapaccha + climbing tocllaraju 6,030m
• Climbing yanapaccha + climbing chopicalqui 6,354m
• Climbing yanapaccha + climbing alpamayo 5,947m
• Climbing yanapaccha + climbing Huascaran 6,768m

Trip program Lima – Huaraz – mountains – Huaraz – Lima all included just available on request.

ITINERARY

CLIMB PROGRAM NORMAL ROUTE HUARAZ – YANAPACCHA – HUARAZ

Included meals: B = Breakfast / snack = S / lunch = L / D = Dinner

DAY 1: Huaraz – portacchuelo llanganuco - moraine Camp (4900m) 16,072 ft.
We will drive from Huaraz with our private transportation into the astonishing Llanganuco Valley then continue driving until the place called portachuelo at 4600 on the main road that cross llanganuco to yanama village; from there we hike up to moraine camp, climb up traversing the moraine on faint path occasionally is marked by cairns, after rounding a ridge, where is the view point, on its offer a gorgeous view around us several summits as: Huascaran, Huandoy, Pisco, Chacraraju, and wondrous view heading mount Yanapaccha in from us, and great vista of Llanganuco valley with a couple glacier lakes on the middle of the valley. Then the path follow until reach the moraine camp. please understand we don’t have donkey support on this way, so you need to carry your personal climbing gear: In your day pack you must carry necessary gears as: extra warm clothing, water proof jacket & pant , water bottle, camera, valuable and personal items such as sunscreen, lip balm, portable solar panel, sunglasses, your snack, personal first aid kit, hiking poles, sleeping bag, sleeping mats (foam) or your thermal rest, ice axe, harness, crampons, climbing boots, carabiners, belay device ATC, helmet & Prussic or slings. Overnight at moraine camp of yanapaccha. Meal: S / L / D

DAY 2: attempt yanapaccha summit at (5460m)/17,908ft – moraine camp – portachuello - Huaraz
Summit day: We as usually leave very early from the moraine camp around 3:00 am, because we must climb up on the rocky section or moraine until reach the beginning of glacier as soon as we reach it we put on our climbing gear as crampons, rope up, harness. Then we climb upon on good glacier field, the beginning is usually a short steep ice climb and then we climb upon several steep slopes section, negotiating several crevasses till reach the lower crevasses just below the snow & ice wall. From it there are two routes to climb up:

Option 01: this route goes basically straight up toward the summit on the west face at least two pitches of 60 meters long with 50° – 60°, where is important to use a couple of ice screw to protect & two technical ice axes.

Option 02: there is another route which is less demanding than another one, well this one take the left side just before climbing up two pitches of 60 meters, for it there are a 20 - 30 meters long steep slope of 50° – 55° degrees to get the north ridge (which is the crux), then follow climbing on it to reach the summit, walk on the north ridge isn’t difficult.

For both routes, As soon as we reach the summit the view is really superb & panorama . You get on the ridge just to the right of a very big mushroom. It isn’t possible to get on by the serac condition. After enjoying the vista we back on the north ridge with a 60 meters rappel, then follow retracing on the same route up till moraine camp & then back out to the road where our private vehicle will be waiting for us to bring Huaraz Finish Our Climb. Back to Huaraz for a nice shower in the hotel and some rest; enjoy a good dinner celebrating in y the town after climbing success. Overnight at hotel. Meal: B / S / L

NOTE: CLIMBING INSTRUCTION PROGRAM ON YANAPACCHA AVAILABLE ON REQUEST
Day 3 & 4: Climbing Instruction: Stay an extra night(s) in Morena Camp - Include a day or two days of ice climbing and / or rescue training on Yanapaccha Glacier with climbing to the summit on the final day.

Climbing instruction: The lower portion of the glacier on Yanapaccha is a great area to learn and practice climbing instructions as: glacier travel skills, rope team procedure, crampon walks, anchors, abseil, on belay systems & rescue procedure. The upper slopes of it are great and suitable for glacier travel because require a climbing techniques & even the last pitch on the west face just before the summit involve extended climbing at about 50° to 60°. SUGGESTION: for climbing yanapaccha we consider collective or group porter support from car road to moraine camp to help with our collective climbing gear. If you want a personal porter to help you with your personal climbing gear is available just only upon request with extra expenses, because simple the personal porter is not considered in our climbing expedition rate.

please understand for climbing yanapaccha donkey & donkey driver support are not available, from base camp to high camp that mean you need to carry your personal climbing gear: In your day pack you must carry necessary gears as: extra warm clothing, water proof jacket & pant , water bottle, camera, valuable and personal items such as sunscreen, lip balm, portable solar panel, sunglasses, your snack, personal first aid kit, hiking poles, sleeping bag, sleeping mats (foam) or your thermal rest, ice axe, harness, crampons, climbing boots, carabiners, belay device ATC, helmet & Prussic or slings.

Note: the Porter service will be available from base camp to high camp: they will carry all group or collective climbing equipment as: sleeping tents, food supplies, full kitchen utensils, and protective hard ware as (rope, snow pickets, ice crow, stoves and all supplies necessary to make a safe and strong bid for the summit) they will carry all collective equipment + their personal equipment in their big backpacks, that is the reason you need to carry your personal climbing equipment

SUGGESTION: for climbing yanapaccha we consider collective or group porter support from base camp to moraine camp – to high camp to help with our collective climbing gear. If you want a personal porter to help you with your personal climbing gear is available just only upon request with extra expenses, because simple the personal porter is not considered in our climbing expedition rate.

Note: climbing yanapaccha is not advisable for beginners, because this lovely summit require previous mountaineering experience, with prior knowledge of roped up, travel on exposed places of steep slopes, crampon techniques, skills using a couple of technique ice axes; rappel techniques, belay and anchors on icefall, some experience on glacier travel. It’s ideal summit for advanced level climbers, who are looking for having life time experience on mountain climbing.

Trip program Lima – Huaraz – mountains – Huaraz – Lima all included just available on request.

PRICES & DATES

Climbing expeditions Rates for private groups 2024

Choose and book your adventure travel style & let us take you on it for a responsible & sustainable tourism:

Season
begin of May
June
July
August
End of September

We organize this version of climbing expeditions to climbing yanapaccha on private basis for groups of friends, families, adventure companies & tour leaders. With fully local guides assistance. Please feel completely free to get in touch with us to discuss the itinerary and your preferred dates to send you a quote, with no obligation.

Cost on base of:

• 1 participants USD $ 910 per each one
• 2 participants USD $ 595 per each one
• 3 participants USD $ 500 per each one
• 4 participants USD $ 425 per each one
• 5 participants USD $ 385 per each one
• 6 participants (+) USD $ 365 per each one

Note:
• Additional info or Full trip dossier information (PDF) available upon request & provided at the booking time.

• In the showed rate isn’t included the general Peruvian taxes (I.G.V)

Get Special discount for the groups more than 5 participants

Trip program Lima – Huaraz – mountains – Huaraz – Lima all included just available upon request.

We Are Ready To Make Your Dream a Reality

INCLUSIONS

What’s included in the cost

• Huaraz bus station (meeting service) and Transfer from bus station - ho(s) tel – bus station (arrival & departure day)
• Private transportation for begin & return of climbing yanapaccha
• Certified & qualified mountain guide.
• Assistant guide (aspirant) with more than 2 clients
• Mountain cook
• Assistant cook for large groups
• Dondey & donkey driver service not available in the area
• healthy & fresh meals per day (hearty breakfast, snack, lunch & hot dinner)
• porters to load up our colective climbing equipment until moraine camp
• Full First aid group kid
• No Cook tent, Dinner tent, Toilet tent, table, chairs not available
• Good quality Sleeping Tent (a tent for 3 persons by 2 people).
• sleeping mats (foam) for every body
• Full Utensil kitchen by every body
• Group climbing gear or protective hard ware as (rope, snow pickets, ice screw, stoves and all supplies necessary to make a safe and strong bid for the summit )
• Full entrance fee ticket or climbing permits ($ 20) per each climber

What doesn’t included in the cost

• booking bus or flight ticket to transfer from (lima - Huaraz – lima)
• Booking Ho(s)tel for accommodation in Huaraz
• Acclimatization program before climbing yanapaccha.
• Breakfast in the first day and dinner on the last day.
• Meal and beverages during the stay in Huaraz
• Extra food in our trip
• Personal climb equipment
• Sleeping-bag (-20 ºC)
• Additional tours.
• Travel insurance assistance
• Phone calls, access to internet cabins & others extra expenses
• Laundry service
• Personal first aid kid
• Personal toiletries
• Additional sleeping pad or thermal rest
• Tips for the staff
• Extra expenses no specified in this trip program

Extra
we can help you to rent extra equipment not included in the price

• Climbing boots = USD $
• harness = USD $
• crampon = USD $
• helmet = USD $

Extra service available upon request

• booking hotel for accommodation in Huaraz
• booking bus ticket to travel (lima - Huaraz – lima)
• Additional tours, hikes, climbing expeditions to higher summits.

Trip program Lima – Huaraz – mountains – Huaraz – Lima all included just available on request.

WHY TRAVEL WITH US

Responsible travel
Responsible travel practice is elemental in our each trip program. When you book one of our adventure pursuits, we will ensure that you practice a responsible & sustainable tourism on wild & remote areas protecting: the fragile ecosystem, tradition of local communities, natural environments and wildlife.

As a responsible travel we try to produce the most minimum impact as possible to the environment on the path where we walk, because we know clearly about the global warning and climate change that is the main reason that we have a responsibility as visitors to minimize the impact with our presence.

Tourism is one of the most important industries in the planet. It option to employs people around worldwide, obviously the Benefits is much more for people who live in developing countries where the income we provide can mean the difference between economic survival and poverty

THE RESPONSIBLE WAY TO YOUR ADVENTURE MEAN:

PROTECTING & CONSERVING: natural mountain-scape, every natural resource, flora & fauna.

RESPECTING: local culture – traditions, religions and built heritage where you visit.

BENEFITTING: with your visit you will generate a job opportunities for local communities.

MINIMISING POLLUTION: taking-out our trash during the trek or climb expeditions all litter is remove to the city for it properly recycled. We use specified spots to put on our toilets tents at the camping areas to don’t pollute the water resource.

Please become part of this practicing a responsible & sustainable travel your challenge is important

Ultimate Value
When you book one of our tours, acclimatization hikes, multi-day treks, & climbing expeditions, you will receive currently information, quality services at the best prices with plenty of inclusions & exclusion cost. This trip offers exceptional value money, ensuring your holiday with affordable rate and guaranteeing with centrally good quality hotels, private transportations, official bilingual guides with international certification (UIMLA), (UIAGM) both organizations are internationally recognized, good varied and fresh food for adventure expeditions, all your national park entrance fees and permits included, no hidden cost, no surprises and no staff exploit.

Pricing
As a 100% local qualified guides & tour operators our trip prices are based directly on Peruvian economy rates our cost structure is built up cost on cost because we directly manage and run all of our trips, beside promoting the local employ, personal qualified people, providing a job opportunity with that improving their economy and their quality of life and even we encourage hardly the fair wage, because we work very transparent & the most honest possible

Custom Made Itineraries
You should absolutely feel free to build your own trip program according your preference & necessity just only let us know to help with our experience to make an itinerary day a day just for you, giving you complete freedom to choose what you want to see, where you want to go, when you want to do it, How you can enjoy it with better health. Adjust an existing itinerary & ensuring that you develop a responsible and sustainable tourism.

Small Group is good
We are focused organizing for small groups to provide topnotch service in: tours, hikes, multi-day treks & climbing expeditions to live a life time experience for adventure lovers, while your guide & support crew are attentive to ensuring your travels are supportive and full safety.

No Single Supplements
If you are joining in one of our adventure expeditions as a single person, we’ll match you with another traveler of the same gender and you won’t be charged anything extra for the vast majority of our trips. If you however want a guaranteed single occupancy or tent, we can also arrange that for at a small extra charge.

Exploring cordillera blanca
Indubitably cordillera Blanca provides some of the most astonishing landscape in the world, varied tours, acclimatization hikes, multi-day treks & climbing expeditions. This is Peru’s best-known mountain region, only 100km from the Pacific Ocean, we find within this 185 km long from south to north the greatest concentration of tropical zone glaciers on earth and it has 722 glaciers for survival 30 peaks of them are over the 6000m high, crowned by Peru’s highest peak Huascaran (6768m), and the most beautiful peak in the world “Mount Alpamayo” is lies hire as well.

Cordillera Blanca provides gorgeous views of sparkling glaciers, multicolored glacier lakes; turquoise and pristine lagoons & vertical granite rock walls rise thousands of meters into the sky, water falls, and cascades with incredible view, (a number of high passes), green lush valleys, magnificent vistas of summits over 6,000 m, cascading glaciers, wondrous alpine meadows, fragile ecosystems, going explore is really good chance to Enjoy the sptacles of the nature to Click stunning photos.

We Are Ready To Make Your Dream a Reality

WHAT TO BRING

WHAT TO BRING FOR CLIMBING

CLOTHING

• Climbing Boots: need to be crampon-compatible. For summits up to about 6000 meters, a B3 boot is required, mostly for the additional warmth it provides. Well-insulated single leather or synthetic mountaineering boots, or lighter plastic boots, are appropriate.
• Hiking boots or hiking shoes: These are the boots you will wear to approach to base camp. For example a B0 is advisable.
• Gaiters: Short, ankle gaiters are normally enough for climbs up to about 5300 meters.
• Socks: We recommend you bring 2 changes of socks for your hiking shoes and 2 changes for your climbing boots. Many people like to wear a thin liner sock. This can reduce abrasion and blisters
• Lightweight Synthetic gloves a pair of polar - tec
• Shell gloves a pair for colder conditions
• Sun hat: Or baseball cap with bandanna safety pinned to it to keep the sun off your face and neck
• Warm synthetic or wool hat or otherwise: synthetic is essential
• Balaclava or Neck gaiters: Wool or synthetic, mid-weight, the neck gaiter is more versatile, and can serve as the ear band.
• Bandanas or headscarf (optional)
• Light weight cotton or synthetic pants / trouser: for hiking in the mountains For hiking around camp Shorts are Ok
• A couple of fast drying base-layer tops (whatever material can be long sleeve is advisable)
• Wear light/medium - weight trousers that allow the free movement and will dry quickly
• Fleece jacket & pants or trouser (polar Tec):
• Climbing pants shell proof with zipper (gore – tex). it’s worth having some kind of light synthetic climbing pant with a hard finish. The slightly stretchy "Schoeller" type fabric is ideal. Patagonia, Mammut, Eider, Millet, Marmot
• Climbing jackets shell proof ( gore - tex)
• Dawn jackets is nice or a micro –down jacket are suitable for climbing high summits.
• Wind proof jacket (optional)

CLIMBING TOOLS

• Climbing helmet recommended for every climbing peaks for our safety.
• Harness Adjustable leg loops are recommended, big enough to fit over all your layers of clothing. Bring one with a belay loop
• Ice axe: for yanapaccha you must bring a couple of technical ice axe climbing tools
• Crampons antibottes: These are rubber or plastic plates that fit under you crampons to prevent balling up in soft snow. Alpine crampon
• Carabineers If you are taking a guide then 3 locking, 2 none locking should be plenty.
• Rappel & belay device ATC: such as the Black Diamond "ATC" or a Petzl "Verso" or "Reverso 3" are recommended.
• Glacier glasses 100% UV (Julbo Explorer or Nomad) spectrum 4 for alpinism
• Prussick or slings: it’s necessary for rappel
• Ascender/Tibloc. One right or one left (Black Diamond) or a Petzl
• Ice Screws (one) (Black Diamond) If you take a guide.

CAMPING EQUIPMENT

• Sleeping bag for high camps on climbs up to about 5200 meters, you'll want a bag rated to about -20°C or so for high camps over 6000 meters -25°C . For higher camps you'll want to go warmer yet.
• Foam sleeping pad or a therm- a – rest (prolite or Neo Air for a better night sleep), which is the best for more comfort at high camp.
• 2 liters water bottle. (Nalgene) no camelback because it will freezing during climbing day.
• Water treatment (chlorine dioxide tablets) (micro pure) (optional)
• Headlamp or head torch with extra batteries (we recommended all use LED technology) Petzl's or black diamond.
• Good quality sun cream (Sunscreen) for using around the camp
• Lip balm
• insect repellent
• pocket knife (optional)
• Pee Bottle (2) 1 Liter wide mouth bottles (Nalgene)(optional)
• Thermos (optional) 1 Liter capacity stainless steel vacuum bottle
• Trash bags (4) To line stuff sacks and one large to line pack

SPECIFIC EQUIPMENT

• Hiking steaks or trekking polesare useful a compact 3 section (leki or black diamond they are lither and durable)
• Duffel bag or ruck sack (around 70 liters) with padlock. These duffels will be tied onto the backs of burros on the way up to Base Camp, so make sure they’re tough.
• A 40 - 45 liters day packs to carry spare clothing, snack, camera and water to drink during the day walk or climbing day.

ENTERTAINMENT EQUIPMENT

• MP3 players, paperbacks, journal, games or cards, tablets or electronic book
• Camera
• Mobile phones
• Solar charging panels

PERSONAL MEDICAL KID

• Should include: plasters, antiseptic, cream, sterile gauze and bandage, rehydration sachets, zinc oxide tape and anti-inflammatory painkillers such as ibuprofen or aspirin.
  Bring paracetamol, and acetazolamide or Diamox for treating mild symptoms of (AMS).
  Have loperamide is a good idea in case you get the runs
• Antibiotic such as: ciprofloxacin or Bactrim for bacterial stomach bugs.
A small roll of adhesive tape, cough drops.

PERSONAL TOILETS

• Toilets such us: Toothbrush, small amount of toothpaste, dental floss, contact lens fluids, a small bar of soap, and small hand towel or wash clothes.
• On most expeditions in base camps we can supply you with a small bowl of warm washing water in the morning and afternoon.
• A small synthetic hand towel (wash clothes) is useful for taking a sponge bath, toilet paper.