OVERVIEW

Mount Alpamayo at 5947 m (19,511 feet) is one of the most conspicuous peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. Alpamayo is a steep, (forty five – fifty - sixty – seventy five – eighty degrees to climb) on good snow & ice, it’s one of a number of peaks that compose the Santa Cruz Massif. While smaller than many of its neighboring peaks, it is distinguished by its unusual formation. The most common climbing route, nowadays is on Straight French route with around 450 meters of snow & ice wall with 7 – 8 pitches. Mount alpamayo despite not being one of the higher summits over six thousand meters but is highly demanded by the most famous climbers of the globe This splendid summit in 1966 in an international survey was declared as the most beautiful mount in the globe the scenic beauty draws climbers from afar by its spectacular pyramidal shape on the north face and lovely ice flouted on the southwest face, from the high camp offer amazing views of steep ice faces, gigantic white walls and ridges similar to the finest of the Himalayan scenery.

Maximum Altitude 5947 m (19,506) feet
Difficulty (AD)
Lengths 7 - 8 days climb

Brief Itinerary climb program Huaraz – alpamayo – Huaraz

Day 1: Huaraz – Cashapampa at (2990m) – Llama Coral 3760 (m)/12,332ft.
DAY 2: Llama Coral - Alpamayo Base Camp at (4330m)/14,202ft
DAY 3: Base Camp - Moraine Camp at (4900m)/16,072ft
DAY 4: Moraine Camp - Alpamayo high Camp I at (5500m)/18,000ft
DAY 5: Attempt Summit Alpamayo (5947m)/ 19,506ft – high camp o moraine
DAY 6: Camp I or moraine – Alpamayo Base Camp (4330m)/14,202ft
DAY 7: base camp alpamayo – Cashapampa – Huaraz

Normal route (straight French route): On our web site we describe the normal route which is more commonly route to ascent on southwest face this is a great route & feasible if you are in fit & well acclimatized with two ice axes.

Note: alpamayo not advisable for beginners, because this lovely summit require plenty of technical mountaineering experience, with prior knowledge of roped up, travel on exposed places of steep slopes, crampon techniques, skills using a couple of technique ice axes; rappel techniques, belay and anchors on icefall, wide experience on glacier travel. It’s ideal summit for advanced level climbers, who are looking for having life time experience on mountain climbing

SUGGESTION: please understand that before climbing alpamayo you should complete a good acclimatization process to avoid altitude sickness, ask us for advice or visit our web page about acclimatization hikes or multi-day treks, easier summits with lesser difficult

consideration: please in our climb program we don’t consider the contingence day if you want that we consider it in that case add an extra day in our usual program then get in touch with us to discuss the itinerary to send you a quote, with no obligation, well the contingence day is extra day more than as an usual, which can be one day longer than many others that you can see. The extra day can be effectively used for bad weather, or in otherwise when the ice wall is crowded the day that we can attempt the summit, in that cases we can wait on high camp to attempt the next day by our safety.

Note: If you have more time you can extend this climb program by ascending other summits with same difficult:

• Climbing alpamayo + climbing quitaraju 6, 030m
• Climbing alpamayo + climbing artezonraju 6,030m
• Climbing alpamayo + climbing Huascaran 6,768m
• Climbing Alpamayo + climbing Ranrapalca 6, 130m

Trip program Lima – Huaraz – mountains – Huaraz – Lima all included just available on request.

ITINERARY

CLIMB PROGRAM NORMAL ROUTE HUARAZ – ALPAMAYO – HUARAZ

Included meals: B = Breakfast / snack = S / lunch = L / D = Dinner

Day 1: Huaraz – Cashapampa at (2990m) – Llama Coral 3760 (m)/12,332ft.
We will pick up you at your hotel with our private vehicle. As we drive through the rich Callejón de Huaylas valley, we will pass through small agricultural towns with colonial architecture with red tile roofs. On the way, we will stop to enjoy spectacular views of the Andes including the western face of Peru’s highest peak, Huascaran (22,205 ft). We will then continue driving through the town of Caraz, to Cashapampa village, where we will meet with the donkeys & the donkey driver. We will begin by walking along the right bank of the Santa Cruz River. The trail has a moderate grade with some steep sections. This narrow valley has sparkling waterfalls, forest groves & highland bushes, our trail will pass under looming rock towers and rock slides until arriving at our campsite, located in a wide meadow with a spectacular view to the valley’s head. Overnight camp at Llamacorral. Meal: S / L / D

DAY 2: Llama Coral - Alpamayo Base Camp at (4330m)/14,202ft
This day we will walk upon gently grade uphill, passing the beautiful mountain lakes of ichiccocha and Jatuncocha, hiking upon green lush valley until quisuar, from it we walk up on steep hill but the trail winds up on sig sag until reach Alpamayo overlooking above arhueycocha gorge, there offer superb view of mount alpamayo east face, despite not being one of the higher summits but is highly demanded by many mountaineers, in the 1966 an international survey was declared as the most beautiful mountain in the world and this beauty draws climbers from afar by its spectacular pyramidal shape on the north face and lovely ice flouted on the southwest face, even that is perfect point as well to appreciate the dramatic vista of artezonraju, the angle the peak bears a striking resemblance to paramount studios logo, keep walking up until alpamayo base camp on arhueycocha valley. Overnight camp at base camp. Meal: B / S / L /D

DAY 3: Base Camp - Moraine Camp at (4900m)/16,072ft
This day after our hearty breakfast at base camp we will move from base camp toward moraine camp, it is situated just below the glacier on polished granite rock slabs, climb upon steep & very steep section, slippery moraine, crossing loose ground and rocky side, until reach the camp at 5000 meters, the camp offer incredible view to the east & south across to pucajircas, paria and artezonraju are spectacular. please understand we don’t have donkey support from base camp to high camp, that mean you need to carry your personal climbing gear: In your day pack you must carry necessary gears as: extra warm clothing, water proof jacket & pant , water bottle, camera, valuable and personal items such as sunscreen, lip balm, portable solar panel, sunglasses, your snack, personal first aid kit, hiking poles, sleeping bag, sleeping mats (foam) or your thermal rest, ice axe, harness, crampons, climbing boots, carabiners, belay device ATC, helmet & Prussic or slings. Overnight at moraine camp of alpamayo. Meal: B / S / L / D

DAY 4: Moraine Camp - Alpamayo high Camp I at (5500m)/18,000ft
After the breakfast we walk toward the glacier as soon as we reach it, we dress up our climbing gears, after roping up, we start climbing upon rolling glacier negotiating several crevasses, overcoming some sections of ice & snow slopes with 45 degrees till reach the hard ice just at the base of ice Cliff, from it there are 3 sections to climb, the first one is a pitch of 30 meters climbing upon hard ice with 65° degrees, the second one is a pitch of 60 meters climbing upon solid snow with 50° degrees, the third or last one is a pitch of 60 meters climbing upon solid snow field with 60° degrees, where requires some two ice axes to surmount it, after it we reach the high pass (known as col) between mounts alpamayo and quitaraju that is on high glacier plateau. This day you need to carry your climbing personal gear as well. Overnight at high camp of alpamayo. Meal: B / S / L / D

DAY 5: Attempt Summit Alpamayo (5947m)/ 19,506ft – high camp, moraine or base camp
Summit day: We as usually leave early from the high camp around 1:00 am, primarily we cross the glacier, between camp and bergschrund negotiating several crevasses until reach the base of Southwest Face ice fluted, after crossing the bergschrund we start climbing the ice fluted is steep and technical to climb mixed with good snow & hard ice, where is necessary climbing with two ice axes. Nowadays the most common climbing route, known as French straight route around 450 meters, 7 – 8 pitches are need to reach the summit, the first 2 – 3 pitches are on good snow (50° – 65°), upper pitches are typically on excellent ice (65° - 70° - 75°), perhaps as much as 80° for the finale part of the last pitch to the ridge on hard ice. The summit ridge varies in difficult from year to year, some years it is possible to gain the absolutely highest point of the peak as in 2017, but occasionally unstable cornice block the way which usually appear between the top of the last pitch and the highest point of the peak. Summit view are panorama, scenic, & superb, where the enjoyment is unique. Descent is on same route up, take around 7 – 8 rappels.

• If we back early morning from the summit and client feel in good physical condition we descent to base, it would happen that the day 6 we will spend at base camp for rest or the day 6 cam be use as a contingence day (in case of but weather or when the summit day is so crowded we will awaits to next night to attempt the summit)
• If we back late morning from the summit and client feel in good shape we decide descent until moraine camp. it would happen that the day 6 we will spend to descent - base camp
• If we back too late and clients feel tired, and the conditions would be unsafe to descent. In that case we spend one more night at high camp Overnight at alpamayo high camp – moraine or base camp (depending weather condition - time & costumer shape). Meal: B / S / L / D

DAY 6: Camp I – Alpamayo Base Camp (4330m)/14,202ft
After climbing alpamyo successfully this day we descent toward Base Camp, it is necessary to do rappel of 100 meters – 150 meters on the ice cliff, outside the glacier we walk down on loose moraine, a celebrating dinner will awaits for us at the base camp this happened, when the costumer felt so tarried at the summit but in otherwise we move from moraine to base camp or simple take this day a day off at base camp. Overnight at base camp alpamayo. Meal: B / S / L / D

DAY 7: base camp alpamayo – Cashapampa – Huaraz
We walk down on the Santa Cruz valley until cashapampa village, where our private transportation is waiting us to bring Huaraz. Finish Our Climb. Back to Huaraz for a nice shower in the hotel and some rest; enjoy a good dinner celebrating in y the town after climbing success. Overnight at hotel. Meal: B / S / L

please understand for climbing alpamayo donkey & donkey driver support are not available, from base camp to high camp that mean you need to carry your personal climbing gear: In your day pack you must carry necessary gears as: extra warm clothing, water proof jacket & pant , water bottle, camera, valuable and personal items such as sunscreen, lip balm, portable solar panel, sunglasses, your snack, personal first aid kit, hiking poles, sleeping bag, sleeping mats (foam) or your thermal rest, ice axe, harness, crampons, climbing boots, carabiners, belay device ATC, helmet & Prussic or slings.

Note: the Porter service will be available from base camp to high camp: they will carry all group or collective climbing equipment as: sleeping tents, food supplies, full kitchen utensils, and protective hard ware as (rope, snow pickets, ice crow, stoves and all supplies necessary to make a safe and strong bid for the summit) they will carry all collective equipment + their personal equipment in their big backpacks, that is the reason you need to carry your personal climbing equipment

SUGGESTION: for climbing alpamayo we consider collective or group porter support from base camp to moraine camp – to high camp to help with our collective climbing gear. If you want a personal porter to help you with your personal climbing gear is available just only upon request with extra expenses, because simple the personal porter is not considered in our climbing expedition rate.

Alpamayo is not advisable for beginners, because this lovely summit require plenty of technical mountaineering experience, with prior knowledge of roped up, travel on exposed places of steep slopes, crampon techniques, skills using a couple of technique ice axes; rappel techniques, belay and anchors on icefall, wide experience on glacier travel. It’s ideal summit for advanced level climbers, who are looking for having life time experience on mountain climbing.

Trip program Lima – Huaraz – mountains – Huaraz – Lima all included just available on request.

PRICES & DATES

Climbing expeditions Rates for private groups 2024

Choose and book your adventure travel style & let us take you on it for a responsible & sustainable tourism:

Season
mid of June
July
End of August

We organize this version of climbing expeditions to mount Alpamayo on private basis for groups of friends, families, adventure companies & tour leaders. With fully local guides assistance. Please feel completely free to get in touch with us to discuss the itinerary and your preferred dates to send you a quote, with no obligation.

Cost on base of:

• 1 participants USD $ 3,340 per each one
• 2 participants USD $ 2,245 per each one
• 3 participants USD $ 2,041 per each one
• 4 participants (+) USD $ 1,720 per each one

GUIDING RATIO ON MOUNTAINEERING

For technical level summits with AD - D difficult: 2 by 1, which mean maximum two clients for guide, for the technical nature of the route, because, climbing in large groups more than 2 will be joined by additional guides (aspirant), as necessary. We consider that because the less ration a guide increases our security.

Note: If costumer want to have personalized guide, which mean one guide per each climber, instead of 2 by 1 to assure the summit success, the expedition rate is available just only upon request.

Note:

• Additional info or Full trip dossier information (PDF) available upon request & provided at the booking time.
• In the showed rate isn’t included the general Peruvian taxes (I.G.V)

Get Special discount for the groups more than 5 participants

Trip program Lima – Huaraz – mountains – Huaraz – Lima all included just available upon request.

We Are Ready To Make Your Dream a Reality

INCLUSIONS

What’s included in the cost

• Huaraz bus station (meeting service) and Transfer from bus station - ho(s) tel – bus station (arrival & departure day)
• Private transportation for begin & return of climb Alpamayo
• Certified & qualified mountain guide.
• Assistant guide (aspirant) with more than 2 clients
• Mountain cook
• Assistant cook for large groups
• Healthy & fresh meals per day (hearty breakfast, snack, lunch & hot dinner)
• Donkeys (mules) & Donkey driver (service) to load up our climbing equipment until base camp
• Porter support (load our group or collective climb equipment) B.C – high camp.
• Full First aid group kid
• Cook tent, Dinner tent, Toilet tent, table, chairs (available at base camp)
• Good quality Sleeping Tent (a tent for 3 persons by 2 people).
• Sleeping mats (foam) for every body
• Full Utensil kitchen by every body
• Group climbing gear or protective hard ware as (rope, snow pickets, ice screw, stoves and all supplies necessary to make a safe and strong bid for the summit)
• Full entrance fee ticket or climbing permits ($ 50) per each climber

What doesn’t included in the cost

• booking bus or flight ticket to transfer from (lima - Huaraz – lima)
• Booking Ho(s)tel for accommodation in Huaraz
• Acclimatization program before climbing Alpamayo.
• Breakfast in the first day and dinner on the last day.
• Meal and beverages during the stay in Huaraz
• Extra food in our trip
• Personal climb equipment
• Additional tours.
• Travel insurance assistance
• Phone calls, access to internet cabins & others extra expenses
• Laundry service
• Personal first aid kid
• Personal toiletries
• Additional sleeping pad or thermal rest
• Tips for the staff
• Extra expenses no specified in this trip program

Extra
we can help you to rent extra equipment not included in the price

• Climbing boots = USD $
• Harness = USD $
• Crampon = USD $
• Helmet = USD $

SUGGESTION:
For climbing Alpamayo we consider collective or group porter support from base camp to moraine camp – high camp to help with our collective climbing gear. If you want a personal porter to help you with your personal climbing gear is available just only upon request with extra expenses, because simple the personal porter is not considered in our climbing expedition rate.

Extra service available upon request

• Booking hotel for accommodation in Huaraz
• Booking bus ticket to travel (lima - Huaraz – lima)
• Additional tours, hikes, climbing expeditions to higher summits.
• Personal porter

Trip program Lima – Huaraz – mountains – Huaraz – Lima all included just available on request.

WHY TRAVEL WITH US

Responsible travel
Responsible travel practice is elemental in our each trip program. When you book one of our adventure pursuits, we will ensure that you practice a responsible & sustainable tourism on wild & remote areas protecting: the fragile ecosystem, tradition of local communities, natural environments and wildlife.

As a responsible travel we try to produce the most minimum impact as possible to the environment on the path where we walk, because we know clearly about the global warning and climate change that is the main reason that we have a responsibility as visitors to minimize the impact with our presence.

Tourism is one of the most important industries in the planet. It option to employs people around worldwide, obviously the Benefits is much more for people who live in developing countries where the income we provide can mean the difference between economic survival and poverty

THE RESPONSIBLE WAY TO YOUR ADVENTURE MEAN:

PROTECTING & CONSERVING: natural mountain-scape, every natural resource, flora & fauna.

RESPECTING: local culture – traditions, religions and built heritage where you visit.

BENEFITTING: with your visit you will generate a job opportunities for local communities.

MINIMISING POLLUTION: taking-out our trash during the trek or climb expeditions all litter is remove to the city for it properly recycled. We use specified spots to put on our toilets tents at the camping areas to don’t pollute the water resource.

Please become part of this practicing a responsible & sustainable travel your challenge is important

Ultimate Value
When you book one of our tours, acclimatization hikes, multi-day treks, & climbing expeditions, you will receive currently information, quality services at the best prices with plenty of inclusions & exclusion cost. This trip offers exceptional value money, ensuring your holiday with affordable rate and guaranteeing with centrally good quality hotels, private transportations, official bilingual guides with international certification (UIMLA), (UIAGM) both organizations are internationally recognized, good varied and fresh food for adventure expeditions, all your national park entrance fees and permits included, no hidden cost, no surprises and no staff exploit.

Pricing
As a 100% local qualified guides & tour operators our trip prices are based directly on Peruvian economy rates our cost structure is built up cost on cost because we directly manage and run all of our trips, beside promoting the local employ, personal qualified people, providing a job opportunity with that improving their economy and their quality of life and even we encourage hardly the fair wage, because we work very transparent & the most honest possible

Custom Made Itineraries
You should absolutely feel free to build your own trip program according your preference & necessity just only let us know to help with our experience to make an itinerary day a day just for you, giving you complete freedom to choose what you want to see, where you want to go, when you want to do it, How you can enjoy it with better health. Adjust an existing itinerary & ensuring that you develop a responsible and sustainable tourism.

Small Group is good
We are focused organizing for small groups to provide topnotch service in: tours, hikes, multi-day treks & climbing expeditions to live a life time experience for adventure lovers, while your guide & support crew are attentive to ensuring your travels are supportive and full safety.

No Single Supplements
If you are joining in one of our adventure expeditions as a single person, we’ll match you with another traveler of the same gender and you won’t be charged anything extra for the vast majority of our trips. If you however want a guaranteed single occupancy or tent, we can also arrange that for at a small extra charge.

Exploring cordillera blanca
Indubitably cordillera Blanca provides some of the most astonishing landscape in the world, varied tours, acclimatization hikes, multi-day treks & climbing expeditions. This is Peru’s best-known mountain region, only 100km from the Pacific Ocean, we find within this 185 km long from south to north the greatest concentration of tropical zone glaciers on earth and it has 722 glaciers for survival 30 peaks of them are over the 6000m high, crowned by Peru’s highest peak Huascaran (6768m), and the most beautiful peak in the world "Mount Alpamayo" is lies hire as well.

Cordillera Blanca provides gorgeous views of sparkling glaciers, multicolored glacier lakes; turquoise and pristine lagoons & vertical granite rock walls rise thousands of meters into the sky, water falls, and cascades with incredible view, (a number of high passes), green lush valleys, magnificent vistas of summits over 6,000 m, cascading glaciers, wondrous alpine meadows, fragile ecosystems, going explore is really good chance to Enjoy the sptacles of the nature to Click stunning photos.

We Are Ready To Make Your Dream a Reality

WHAT TO BRING

WHAT TO BRING FOR CLIMBING

CLOTHING

• Climbing Boots: need to be crampon-compatible. For summits up to about 6000 meters, a B3 boot is required, mostly for the additional warmth it provides. Well-insulated single leather or synthetic mountaineering boots, or lighter plastic boots, are appropriate.
• Hiking boots or hiking shoes: These are the boots you will wear to approach to base camp. For example a B0 is advisable.
• Gaiters: Bring a pair of regular knee high gaiters for bigger routes as 6000 meters mount.
• Socks: We recommend you bring 2 changes of socks for your hiking shoes and 2 changes for your climbing boots. Many people like to wear a thin liner sock. This can reduce abrasion and blisters
• Lightweight Synthetic gloves a pair of polar - tec
• Shell gloves a pair for colder conditions
• Sun hat: Or baseball cap with bandanna safety pinned to it to keep the sun off your face and neck
• Warm synthetic or wool hat or otherwise: synthetic is essential
• Balaclava or Neck gaiters: Wool or synthetic, mid-weight, the neck gaiter is more versatile, and can serve as the ear band.
• Bandanas or headscarf (optional)
• Light weight cotton or synthetic pants / trouser: for hiking in the mountains For hiking around camp Shorts are Ok
• A couple of fast drying base-layer tops (whatever material can be long sleeve is advisable)
• Wear light/medium - weight trousers that allow the free movement and will dry quickly
• Fleece jacket & pants or trouser (polar Tec):
• Climbing pants shell proof with zipper (gore – tex). it’s worth having some kind of light synthetic climbing pant with a hard finish. The slightly stretchy "Schoeller" type fabric is ideal. Patagonia, Mammut, Eider, Millet, Marmot
• Climbing jackets shell proof ( gore - tex)
• Dawn jackets is nice or a micro –down jacket are suitable for climbing high summits.
• Wind proof jacket (optional)


CLIMBING TOOLS

• Climbing helmet recommended for every climbing peaks for our safety.
• Harness Adjustable leg loops are recommended, big enough to fit over all your layers of clothing. Bring one with a belay loop
• Ice axe: for Alpamayo you must bring a couple of technical ice axe climbing tools
• Crampons antibottes: These are rubber or plastic plates that fit under you crampons to prevent balling up in soft snow. Alpine crampon
• Carabineers If you are taking a guide then 3 locking, 2 none locking should be plenty.
• Rappel & belay device ATC: such as the Black Diamond "ATC" or a Petzl "Verso" or "Reverso 3" are recommended.
• Glacier glasses 100% UV (Julbo Explorer or Nomad) spectrum 4 for alpinism
• Prussick or slings: it’s necessary for rappel
• Ascender/Tibloc. One right or one left (Black Diamond) or a Petzl
• Ice Screws (two) (Black Diamond) If you take a guide.


CAMPING EQUIPMENT

• Sleeping bag for high camps on climbs up to about 5200 meters, you'll want a bag rated to about -20°C or so for high camps over 6000 meters -25°C . For higher camps you'll want to go warmer yet.
• Foam sleeping pad or a therm- a – rest (prolite or Neo Air for a better night sleep), which is the best for more comfort at high camp
• 2 liters water bottle. (Nalgene) no camelback because it will freezing during climbing day.
• Water treatment (chlorine dioxide tablets)(micro pure) (optional)
• Headlamp or head torch with extra batteries (we recommended all use LED technology) Petzl's or black diamond.
• Good quality sun cream (Sunscreen) for using around the camp
• Lip balm
• I nsect repellent
• Pocket knife (optional)
• Pee Bottle (2) 1 Liter wide mouth bottles (Nalgene)(optional)
• Thermos (optional) 1 Liter capacity stainless steel vacuum bottle
• Trash bags (4) To line stuff sacks and one large to line pack


SPECIFIC EQUIPMENT

• Hiking steaks or trekking poles are useful a compact 3 section (leki or black diamond they are lither and durable)
• Duffel bag or ruck sack (around 70 liters) with padlock. These duffels will be tied onto the backs of burros on the way up to Base Camp, so make sure they’re tough.
• A 40 - 45 liters day packs to carry spare clothing, snack, camera and water to drink during the day walk or climbing day.


ENTERTAINMENT EQUIPMENT

• MP3 players, paperbacks, journal, games or cards, tablets or electronic book
• Camera
• Mobile phones
• Solar charging panels


PERSONAL MEDICAL KID

• Should include: plasters, antiseptic, cream, sterile gauze and bandage, rehydration sachets, zinc oxide tape and anti-inflammatory painkillers such as ibuprofen or aspirin.
  Bring paracetamol, and acetazolamide or Diamox for treating mild symptoms of (AMS).
  Have loperamide is a good idea in case you get the runs
• Antibiotic such as: ciprofloxacin or Bactrim for bacterial stomach bugs.
A small roll of adhesive tape, cough drops.

PERSONAL TOILETS

• Toilets such us: Toothbrush, small amount of toothpaste, dental floss, contact lens fluids, a small bar of soap, and small hand towel or wash clothes.
• On most expeditions in base camps we can supply you with a small bowl of warm washing water in the morning and afternoon.
• A small synthetic hand towel (wash clothes) is useful for taking a sponge bath, toilet paper.