OVERVIEW
Condoriri at 5648 m, is probably among the most beautiful climbs you can make in the Cordillera Real. The route leading to the head of Condoriri is diverse, combining a glacier walk, climbing a technical corridor and following an exposed ridge. The Scree slope on the approach is better enjoyed on the way down. During this climb the views will also be constantly changing. We definitely recommend to stay for more than one summit as the Base camp is comfortable and located on the shores of beautiful Chiarkhota lagoon. The Massif of Condoriri offers however infinite possibilities for all climbing levelsPequeño alpamayo (5370m) Pequeño Alpamayo or Little Alpamayo one of the most popular in this area, beauty captivates the mountaineer and justifies the effort made to reach it is summit. It is one of the most beautiful mountains of the Cordillera Real, is almost a perfect pyramid. It’s due to Pequeño Alpamayo resemblance to the Alpamayo Mountain in Peru. His rise is one of the most beautiful the summit is a way which justifies looking just because the journey and effort made. This is Andean mountain scenery at its best and one reason this is the second most climbed peak in Bolivia.
Maximum Altitude 5648 m (21,840) feet
Difficulty (AD)
Lengths 6 days climb
Brief Itinerary climb program la paz – cerro Austria – mount pequeño alpamayo - condoriri – la paz
Day 1: La Paz (3600m) – Rinconada – Base Camp 4,650m
Day 2: Acclimatization day (climb up Cerro Austria 5,300m.)
Day 3: Base Camp – Summit Pequeño Alpamayo at 5,370m. – Base Camp.
Day 4: rest day
Day 5: Condoriri base camp – Summit Cabeza de Cóndor (5648m) - Condoriri
Day 06: Base Camp – Rinconada – Return La Paz
HIGHLIGHTS: Reaching the summit of one of the best known peaks in Bolivia. Views of the Cordillera Real and Lake Titicaca is unique.
Normal route: On our web site we describe the normal route which is more commonly route to ascent, the normal route to climb pequeño alpamayo & ondoriri is on via south West ridge II/AD 50° - 55°. This is a great route & feasible if you are in fit & well acclimatized with two ice axes and to climb.
Note: climbing cerro Austria – pequeño alpamayo & condoriri is not advisable for beginners, because this lovely summit require plenty of technical mountaineering experience, with prior knowledge of roped up, travel on exposed places of steep slopes, crampon techniques, skills using a couple of technique ice axes; rappel techniques, belay and anchors on icefall, wide experience on glacier travel. It’s ideal summit for advanced level climbers, who are looking for having life time experience on mountain climbing.
SUGGESTION: please understand that before climbing cerro Austria – pequeño alpamayo & condoriri you should complete a good acclimatization process to avoid altitude sickness.
ITINERARY
CLIMB PROGRAM NORMAL ROUTE LA PAZ – CERRO AUSTRIA – PEQUEÑO ALPAMAYO & CONDORIRI – LA PAZIncluded meals: B = Breakfast / lunch = L / D = Dinner
DAY 1: LA PAZ (3600M) – RINCONADA – BASE CAMP 4,650M
We leave La Paz in a private vehicle around 8:00 a.m. for the village Tuni where the vehicle drops us. There our muleteer will be waiting with the donkeys to help us carrying our stuff to campsite. From here where our trek starts. First we hike parallel with the lake Tuni and thereafter we walk up a beautiful valley which brings us to the Chiar Khota Lake. Our campsite it is located at the shores of a lovely lake called “Chiar Kota” (Dark Lake). While we approach to base camp, we will get surrounded by beautiful peaks toward head the valley. One of them projects from the rest: Condoriri. It resembles a condor with its wide-open wings. 2 hours driving / 2 hours hiking. Overnight at base camp. Meal: L / D
DAY 2: ACCLIMATIZATION DAY (CLIMB UP CERRO AUSTRIA 5,300M.)
Today is climbing to Known as cerro Austria or Cerro Negro, is an easy trekking peak that can be reached via moraines and rock slopes with no technical difficulty. Sometimes there is some snow on the slopes and depending of the season on its deep we will probably need plastic boots and gaiters. Normally, no climbing equipment is required. It will be a great exercise to complete our acclimatization process and a unique opportunity to enjoy one of the best views of Cordillera Real. 5 - 6 hours hiking up & down. Overnight at base camp. Meal: B / L / D
DAY 3: BASE CAMP – SUMMIT PEQUEÑO ALPAMAYO AT 5,370M. – BASE CAMP.
Early in the morning we will be have breakfast aprox. 3:00a.m. after we will start walking toward glacier, after only an hour of walking we will reach a glacier. There we will put our crampons & rope up. First we have to climb MtTarija (5200m) a smaller peak. After we will traverse aprox. 60m to other site. Then continue toward Pequeño Alpamayo summit along the southwest ridge with several steep slopes of 45° - 50° - 55° degrees on good snow, the last 100m of climbing is good fun on a ridge. The summit offer spectacular view around it, included the cabeza de condor condoriri, and even we can be able to observe the Huayna Potosi (6080m). Then we retrace on same route until base camp. 5 - 6 hours hiking up & down. Overnight at base camp. Meal: B / L / D
DAY 4: REST DAY
We have a rest day in the beautiful base camp of Condoriri. We can do small walk in the area. Overnight at base camp. Meal: B / L / D
DAY 5: CONDORIRI BASE CAMP – SUMMIT CABEZA DE CÓNDOR (5648M) - CONDORIRI
Today we have early breakfast at 12:00 am then we leave from base camp at 1:00 am because is a long day, and this means getting up early. We first follow small trails same route to cerro ausria which lead up to a scree slope. Once on top of the scree slop we reach the glacier. From there we need to put our crampons & rope up. The route heads up the glacier to the base of the wall. The climb then contains follow the exposed ridge. We will follow the ridge the rest of the way up to the summit with several sections of 50° - 60° & 70 ° the last part. At the summit we have a short break for take incredible pictures. Then we retrace on same route until Condoriri base camp. 12 – 14 hours. Overnight at base camp. Meal: B / L / D
DAY 06: BASE CAMP – RINCONADA – RETURN LA PAZ
After our breakfast in the morning, we pack all equipment, and back to estancia Tune where our vehicle will be waiting, after drive to La Paz. 2 hours hiking / 2 hours driving. Overnight at la paz. Meal: B /
NOTE: later in the season penitents (large ice spikes) can form, blocking & becoming the climb more demanding, where require plenty in shape.
Note: climbing cerro Austria – pequeño alpamayo – condoriri is not advisable for beginners, because this lovely summit require plenty of technical mountaineering experience, with prior knowledge of roped up, travel on exposed places of steep slopes, crampon techniques, skills using a couple of technique ice axes; rappel techniques, belay and anchors on icefall, wide experience on glacier travel. It’s ideal summit for advanced level climbers, who are looking for having life time experience on mountain climbing.
PRICES & DATES
Climbing expeditions Rates for private groups 2024Choose and book your adventure travel style & let us take you on it for a responsible & sustainable tourism:
Season
early may
June
July
August
September
Mid of October
We organize this version of climbing expeditions of cerro austria – pequeño alpamayo - condoriri on private basis for groups of friends, families, adventure companies & tour leaders. With fully local guides assistance. Please feel completely free to get in touch with us to discuss the itinerary and your preferred dates to send you a quote, with no obligation.
Cost on base of:
- 1 participants USD $ 1,900 per each one
- 2 participants USD $ 1,350 per each one
- 3 participants USD $ 1,250 per each one
- 4 participants (+) USD $ 1,150 per each one
GUIDING RATIO ON MOUNTAINEERING
For technical level summits with AD - D difficult: 2 by 1, which mean maximum two clients for guide, for the technical nature of the route, because, climbing in large groups more than 2 will be joined by additional guides aspirant, as necessary. We consider that because the less ration a guide increases our security.
Note: If costumer want to have personalized guide, which mean one guide per each climber, instead of 2 by 1 to assure the summit success, the expedition rate is available just only upon request.
Note:
• Additional info or Full trip dossier information (PDF) available upon request & provided at the booking time.
• In the showed rate isn’t included the general Peruvian taxes (I.G.V)
We Are Ready To Make Your Dream a Reality
INCLUSIONS
What’s included in the cost- Private transportation for begin & return of climb cerro Austria – pequeño alpamayo – condoriri (round trip)
- Certified & qualified mountain guide (guide ratio 2 clients maximum per 1 gide)
- Assistant guide (aspirant) with more than 2 clients
- Mountain cook
- Assistant cook for large groups
- full meal (5 hearty breakfast, 5 lunch & 5 hot dinners)
- Mules & muleteer service up to base camp – dawn to tuni.
- Full First aid group kid
- Cook tent, Dinner tent, Toilet tent, table, chairs (at base camp)
- Good quality Sleeping Tent (a tent for 3 persons by 2 people). Doable room
- sleeping mats (foam) for every body
- one night at Sajama hotels
- Full Utensil kitchen by every body
- Group climbing gear or protective hard ware as (rope, snow pickets, ice screw, stoves and all supplies necessary to make a safe and strong bid for the summit )
- Full entrance fee ticket or climbing permits to pequeño alpamayo & condoriri
- booking bus or flight ticket to transfer from (el alto –la paz –el alto)
- Booking Ho(s)tel for accommodation in la paz
- Acclimatization program before this climbing program.
- Breakfast in the first day – lunch & dinner on the last day (day 5).
- Meal and beverages during the stay in la paz
- Extra food in our trip
- Personal climb equipment
- Additional tours.
- Sleeping-bag (-25 ºC)
- Travel insurance assistance
- Phone calls, access to internet cabins & others extra expenses
- Laundry service
- Personal first aid kid
- Personal toiletries
- Additional sleeping pad or thermal rest
- Tips for the staff
- Extra expenses no specified in this trip program
we can help you to rent extra equipment not included in the price
- Climbing boots = USD $
- harness = USD $
- crampon = USD $
- helmet = USD $
- Booking hotel for accommodation in la paz
- Additional tours, hikes, climbing expeditions to higher summits.
- Personal porter
WHY TRAVEL WITH US
Responsible travelResponsible travel practice is elemental in our each trip program. When you book one of our adventure pursuits, we will ensure that you practice a responsible & sustainable tourism on wild & remote areas protecting: the fragile ecosystem, tradition of local communities, natural environments and wildlife.
As a responsible travel we try to produce the most minimum impact as possible to the environment on the path where we walk, because we know clearly about the global warning and climate change that is the main reason that we have a responsibility as visitors to minimize the impact with our presence.
Tourism is one of the most important industries in the planet. It option to employs people around worldwide, obviously the Benefits is much more for people who live in developing countries where the income we provide can mean the difference between economic survival and poverty
THE RESPONSIBLE WAY TO YOUR ADVENTURE MEAN:
PROTECTING & CONSERVING: natural mountain-scape, every natural resource, flora & fauna.
RESPECTING: local culture – traditions, religions and built heritage where you visit.
BENEFITTING: with your visit you will generate a job opportunities for local communities.
MINIMISING POLLUTION: taking-out our trash during the trek or climb expeditions all litter is remove to the city for it properly recycled. We use specified spots to put on our toilets tents at the camping areas to don’t pollute the water resource.
Please become part of this practicing a responsible & sustainable travel your challenge is important
Ultimate Value
When you book one of our tours, acclimatization hikes, multi-day treks, & climbing expeditions, you will receive currently information, quality services at the best prices with plenty of inclusions & exclusion cost. This trip offers exceptional value money, ensuring your holiday with affordable rate and guaranteeing with centrally good quality hotels, private transportations, official bilingual guides with international certification (UIMLA), (UIAGM) both organizations are internationally recognized, good varied and fresh food for adventure expeditions, all your national park entrance fees and permits included, no hidden cost, no surprises and no staff exploit.
Pricing
As a 100% local qualified guides & tour operators our trip prices are based directly on Peruvian economy rates our cost structure is built up cost on cost because we directly manage and run all of our trips, beside promoting the local employ, personal qualified people, providing a job opportunity with that improving their economy and their quality of life and even we encourage hardly the fair wage, because we work very transparent & the most honest possible
Custom Made Itineraries
You should absolutely feel free to build your own trip program according your preference & necessity just only let us know to help with our experience to make an itinerary day a day just for you, giving you complete freedom to choose what you want to see, where you want to go, when you want to do it, How you can enjoy it with better health. Adjust an existing itinerary & ensuring that you develop a responsible and sustainable tourism.
Small Group is good
We are focused organizing for small groups to provide topnotch service in: tours, hikes, multi-day treks & climbing expeditions to live a life time experience for adventure lovers, while your guide & support crew are attentive to ensuring your travels are supportive and full safety.
No Single Supplements
If you are joining in one of our adventure expeditions as a single person, we’ll match you with another traveler of the same gender and you won’t be charged anything extra for the vast majority of our trips. If you however want a guaranteed single occupancy or tent, we can also arrange that for at a small extra charge.
Exploring cordillera blanca
Indubitably cordillera Blanca provides some of the most astonishing landscape in the world, varied tours, acclimatization hikes, multi-day treks & climbing expeditions. This is Peru’s best-known mountain region, only 100km from the Pacific Ocean, we find within this 185 km long from south to north the greatest concentration of tropical zone glaciers on earth and it has 722 glaciers for survival 30 peaks of them are over the 6000m high, crowned by Peru’s highest peak Huascaran (6768m), and the most beautiful peak in the world “Mount Alpamayo” is lies hire as well.
Cordillera Blanca provides gorgeous views of sparkling glaciers, multicolored glacier lakes; turquoise and pristine lagoons & vertical granite rock walls rise thousands of meters into the sky, water falls, and cascades with incredible view, (a number of high passes), green lush valleys, magnificent vistas of summits over 6,000 m, cascading glaciers, wondrous alpine meadows, fragile ecosystems, going explore is really good chance to Enjoy the sptacles of the nature to Click stunning photos.
We Are Ready To Make Your Dream a Reality
WHAT TO BRING
WHAT TO BRING FOR CLIMBING-
CLOTHING
- Climbing Boots: need to be crampon-compatible. For summits up to about 6000 meters, a B3 boot is required, mostly for the additional warmth it provides. Well-insulated single leather or synthetic mountaineering boots, or lighter plastic boots, are appropriate.
- Hiking boots or hiking shoes: These are the boots you will wear to approach to base camp. For example a B0 is advisable.
- Gaiters: Bring a pair of regular knee high gaiters for bigger routes as 6000 meters mount.
- Socks: We recommend you bring 2 changes of socks for your hiking shoes and 2 changes for your climbing boots. Many people like to wear a thin liner sock. This can reduce abrasion and blisters
- Lightweight Synthetic gloves a pair of polar - tec
- Shell gloves a pair for colder conditions
- Sun hat: Or baseball cap with bandanna safety pinned to it to keep the sun off your face and neck
- Warm synthetic or wool hat or otherwise: synthetic is essential
- Balaclava or Neck gaiters: Wool or synthetic, mid-weight, the neck gaiter is more versatile, and can serve as the ear band.
- Bandanas or headscarf (optional)
- Light weight cotton or synthetic pants / trouser: for hiking in the mountains For hiking around camp Shorts are Ok
- A couple of fast drying base-layer tops (whatever material can be long sleeve is advisable)
- Wear light/medium - weight trousers that allow the free movement and will dry quickly
- Fleece jacket & pants or trouser (polar Tec):
- Climbing pants shell proof with zipper (gore – tex). it’s worth having some kind of light synthetic climbing pant with a hard finish. The slightly stretchy "Schoeller" type fabric is ideal. Patagonia, Mammut, Eider, Millet, Marmot
- Climbing jackets shell proof ( gore - tex)
- Dawn jackets is nice or a micro –down jacket are suitable for climbing high summits.
- Wind proof jacket (optional)
- Climbing helmet recommended for every climbing peaks for our safety.
- Harness Adjustable leg loops are recommended, big enough to fit over all your layers of clothing. Bring one with a belay loop
- Ice axe: for Sajama you must bring a couple of technical ice axe climbing tools
- Crampons antibottes: These are rubber or plastic plates that fit under you crampons to prevent balling up in soft snow. Alpine crampon
- Carabineers If you are taking a guide then 3 locking, 2 none locking should be plenty.
- Rappel & belay device ATC: such as the Black Diamond "ATC" or a Petzl "Verso" or "Reverso 3" are recommended.
- Glacier glasses 100% UV (Julbo Explorer or Nomad) spectrum 4 for alpinism
- Prussick or slings: it’s necessary for rappel
- Ascender/Tibloc. One right or one left (Black Diamond) or a Petzl
- Ice Screws (two) (Black Diamond) If you take a guide.
- Sleeping bag for high camps on climbs up to about 5200 meters, you'll want a bag rated to about -20°C or so for high camps over 6000 meters -25°C . For higher camps you'll want to go warmer yet.
- Foam sleeping pad or a therm- a – rest (prolite or Neo Air for a better night sleep), which is the best for more comfort at high camp
- 2 liters water bottle. (Nalgene) no camelback because it will freezing during climbing day.
- Water treatment (chlorine dioxide tablets)(micro pure) (optional)
- Headlamp or head torch with extra batteries (we recommended all use LED technology) Petzl's or black diamond.
- Good quality sun cream (Sunscreen) for using around the camp
- Lip balm
- I nsect repellent
- Pocket knife (optional)
- Pee Bottle (2) 1 Liter wide mouth bottles (Nalgene)(optional)
- Thermos (optional) 1 Liter capacity stainless steel vacuum bottle
- Trash bags (4) To line stuff sacks and one large to line pack
- Hiking steaks or trekking poles are useful a compact 3 section (leki or black diamond they are lither and durable)
- Duffel bag or ruck sack (around 70 liters) with padlock. These duffels will be tied onto the backs of burros on the way up to Base Camp, so make sure they’re tough.
- A 40 - 45 liters day packs to carry spare clothing, snack, camera and water to drink during the day walk or climbing day.
- MP3 players, paperbacks, journal, games or cards, tablets or electronic book
- Camera
- Mobile phones
- Solar charging panels
- Should include: plasters, antiseptic, cream, sterile gauze and bandage, rehydration sachets, zinc oxide tape and anti-inflammatory painkillers such as ibuprofen or aspirin.
Bring paracetamol, and acetazolamide or Diamox for treating mild symptoms of (AMS).
Have loperamide is a good idea in case you get the runs - Antibiotic such as: ciprofloxacin or Bactrim for bacterial stomach bugs. A small roll of adhesive tape, cough drops.
- Toilets such us: Toothbrush, small amount of toothpaste, dental floss, contact lens fluids, a small bar of soap, and small hand towel or wash clothes.
- On most expeditions in base camps we can supply you with a small bowl of warm washing water in the morning and afternoon.
- A small synthetic hand towel (wash clothes) is useful for taking a sponge bath, toilet paper.
CLIMBING TOOLS
CAMPING EQUIPMENT
SPECIFIC EQUIPMENT
ENTERTAINMENT EQUIPMENT
PERSONAL MEDICAL KID
PERSONAL TOILETS