MOUNT ALPAMAYO (5,947 m / 19,565 ft) is one of the most striking peaks in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca. Although lower than many of its neighboring summits, however Alpamayo is renowned for its steep climbing conditions and extraordinary beauty. The mountain typically features sustained slopes of 45–60 degrees, with sections reaching up to 75–80 degrees on good snow and stable ice. Since July 2025, the most common climbing route has been the French Direct (French Straight) Route, which involves approximately 450 meters of snow and ice climbing over 7–8 pitches. Despite not exceeding 6,000 meters, Alpamayo is highly sought after by some of the world’s most accomplished climbers.In 1966, an international survey famously ranked Alpamayo as the most beautiful mountain in the world. Its aesthetic appeal lies in its dramatic pyramidal north face and the elegant ice flutings of the southwest face. From high camp, climbers are rewarded with breathtaking views of the steep southwest ice wall, immense southwest face, and razor-sharp ridges—scenery often compared to the finest in the Himalayas
MOUNT TOCLLARAJU, with (6,032 m / 19,785 ft) is a magnificent 6,000-meter peak located at the head of the beautiful Ishinca Valley in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca. It is a demanding mountain that requires excellent physical conditioning, solid mountaineering skills, and thorough acclimatization to ensure a successful ascent. From the summit, climbers are rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views. The mountain’s elegant west face features perfect ice slopes, and the summit itself is crowned by a characteristic ice mushroom—glowing with fiery colors at sunset, a signature feature of this mountain range. Although the normal climbing route is not overly complex, it does require technical competence. The upper sections include several steep ice pitches, making Tocllaraju an ideal objective for climbers looking to develop or refine their technical ice-climbing skills. Ascending Tocllaraju is an excellent way to practice snow and ice techniques while gaining valuable experience managing altitude on steep terrain—skills essential for more challenging high-altitude expeditions.Tocllaraju is a fascinating and rewarding peak, well suited as a first, second, or third 6,000-meter climb for mountaineers seeking to progress toward more ambitious objectives.
MOUNT VALLUNARAJU, with (5,686 m / 18,700 ft) is one of the few peaks in the Cordillera Blanca that can be climbed in just two days. The ascent offers an enjoyable, moderate mountaineering experience with spectacular panoramic views throughout the route.Vallunaraju is an ideal objective for:- First-time climbers seeking their first high-altitude mountaineering experience- Experienced climbers looking for a rewarding ascent and effective acclimatization- Mountaineering courses at the basic, intermediate, and advanced levels
Day A: Flight from origin country to Lima at 50 m / 160 ft. Overnight in the Lima hotel
Day 1: Travel from Lima to Huaraz (3,050 m / 10,030 ft) via flight (LATAM Airlines) or by bus (Cruz del Sur bus company)
Day 2: Huaraz – Transfer with private transportation to Santa Cruz Bridge – Trek to Laguna Wilcacocha (3,750 m / 12,335 ft) – Return to Santa Cruz Bridge – Transfer back to Huaraz
Day 3: Huaraz – Transfer with private transportation to Pitec (3,850 m / 12,665 ft) – Trek to Laguna Churup (4,450 m / 14,640 ft) – Return to Pitec – Transfer back to Huaraz
Day 4: Huaraz – Transfer with private transportation to Llaca Valley (4,400 m / 14,475 ft) – Trek to Morena Camp (4,930 m / 16,220 ft)
Day 5: Morena Camp – Summit attempt of Vallunaraju (5,686 m / 18,705 ft) – Return to Morena Camp – Trek to Llaca Valley – Transfer with private transportation to Huaraz
Day 6: Rest day in Huaraz
Day 7: Huaraz – Transfer with private transportation to Collón or Cochapampa (3,800 m / 12,500 ft) – Trek to Tocllaraju Base Camp (4,390 m / 14,390 ft)
Day 8: Tocllaraju Base Camp – Ascend to Morena Camp (5,000 m / 16,450 ft)
Day 9: Morena Camp – Summit attempt of Tocllaraju (6,030 m / 19,835 ft) – Return to High Camp – Morena Camp – Base Camp
Day 10: Base Camp – Descend through Quebrada Ishinca to Cochapampa – Transfer with private transportation to Huaraz
Day 11: Rest day in Huaraz
Day 12: Huaraz – Transfer with private transportation to Cashapampa (2,990 m / 9,835 ft) – Trek to Llamacoral (3,750 m / 12,300 ft)
Day 13: Llamacoral Camp – Trek to Alpamayo Base Camp (4,350 m / 14,310 ft)
Day 14: Alpamayo Base Camp – Ascend to Morena Camp (4,900 m / 16,076 ft)
Day 15: Morena Camp – Ascend to High Camp (5,300 m / 17,435 ft)
Day 16: High Camp – Summit attempt of Alpamayo (5,947 m / 19,565 ft) – Return to High Camp – Morena Camp – Base Camp
Day 17: Base Camp – Descend through Quebrada Santa Cruz to Cashapampa – Transfer with private transportation to Huaraz
Day 18: Travel from Huaraz to Lima via flight (LATAM Airlines) or by bus (Cruz del Sur bus company) – Arrival in Lima
Day B: Stay in Lima or travel to your origin country
Optional
If you wish, we can arrange & include in the program budget, hotel accommodations in Lima and Huaraz (please let us know your preferred hotel), as well as transportation to travel between Lima – Huaraz – Lima either by bus with Cruz del Sur or by flight with LATAM Airlines. Just let us know your preferences.
Is it for me?
Ideal for intermediate & advanced-level climbers.
This beautiful peak is perfect for adventure enthusiasts seeking an unforgettable mountain experience and an exciting high-altitude journey.
Best suited for experienced and adventurous climbers who can adapt to higher altitudes and longer expeditions, as it requires excellent physical condition and proper acclimatization.
Restrictions
Not recommended for pregnant women.
Not suitable for first-time climbers
Not recommended for climbers with heart conditions.
Not suitable for climbers with knee problems, as the climb requires good physical fitness and endurance.
Adicional notes:
Experience Required & Some Important Notes
Please note: The Vallunaraju + Tocllaraju & Alpamayo expedition starts and ends in Lima. It may also start and end in Huaraz upon request only. Please refer to the travel program for detailed information on how to travel to Huaraz.
This program: Is Not suitable for first-time climbers
Physical conditions: A good level of physical fitness, strong mental stamina, and the ability to perform intense physical activity for several consecutive days are required.
Participants Requirements: Participants must be prepared for approximately six hours of physical exertion per day and be able to carry a 20 kg (44 lb.) backpack
Previous mountaineering experience is required, and prior backpacking experience is highly recommended
Altitude: High-altitude climbing affects everyone differently, and reduced performance is common. To support proper acclimatization, climbing days are generally kept short, and rest days are prioritized. Our gradual acclimatization program helps climbers progressively regain strength and improve performance.
Basic mountaineering skills are required for this program.
These summits are suitable for intermediate and advanced-level climbers.
Trek & Climb Schedule: We will be active in the mountains for approximately 12 days, with an average of 4–5 hours of hiking per day. On summit days, however, the ascent and descent activities may take approximately 10–17 hours.
Overnight camps will be at elevations between 4,000 m / 13,160 ft and 5,300 m / 17,435 ft, the highest camp on the expedition. therefore, Proper acclimatization and suitable physical preparation are required
Huaraz is at 3,050m/10,030 ft. Because of this, we highly recommend staying in Huaraz a few days before trekking departure to get a good acclimatization.
We highly recommend spending at least 2- or 3-days doing day hikes around Huaraz to allow for a gradual acclimatization process to the altitude and to help avoid altitude sickness.
DON’T let fear of altitude sickness stop you from enjoy your climbing expedition. Altitude sickness is an illness caused by exposure to low air pressure, which many people experience at high altitudes. Exerting yourself at high altitudes, especially if you have not been properly acclimated, can cause it, but with proper preparation, & gradual ascend you can be ready for the climbing expedition.
Guiding Ratio: In Peru, we climb with a 2:1 climber-to-guide ratio to ensure the individual attention needed during training and throughout the climbs.
During the climbing expeditions: we will provide 4 meals per day (breakfast, snack, lunch, and dinner), freshly prepared by our chefs during the approach trek to the base camps. On climbing days between Base Camp, Moraine Camp, and the high camps, 3 meals per day (breakfast, snack, and dinner) will be provided and prepared by our chefs.
Acclimatization Hikes
Proper acclimatization to altitude is essential before undertaking any Climbing expeditions in the Cordillera Blanca or Cordillera Huayhuash, in order to avoid loss of energy or altitude-related illnesses. Climbing above 5,000 meters is physically demanding, even when the terrain is not steep or highly technical. For any peak-climbing expedition in the Cordillera Blanca, we strongly recommend a minimum of 2–3 days of acclimatization before the ascent.
Acclimatization for Climbing
All climbing Expeditions programs in the Cordillera Blanca are physically demanding, as you will spend most of the time at elevations between 4,000 and 5,000 meters, with rapid altitude gain shortly after departing from Huaraz. Proper acclimatization is essential to reduce the risk of altitude-related illness.Our expeditions are carefully designed with a gradual acclimatization program to help your body adjust safely to the altitude. We recommend following the itinerary as planned. If you have extra time, arriving earlier is highly advisable so you can spend at least one full day resting and recovering from your journey before the expedition begins
We can also organize acclimatization day hikes for you—just let us know in advance.
Suggestions for Responsible Climbers
If you are planning to visit our region, making the most of your experience starts with taking care of your health. The best way to enjoy the Andes safely is by following a proper acclimatization process as soon as you arrive in this high-altitude environment. This helps prevent altitude sickness and ensures a more comfortable and enjoyable journey. From our experience, your safety and well-being are always the top priorities, so you can feel confident and at ease while exploring far from home. We recommend a gradual acclimatization plan such as the following:
Day 1 — Easy hikes
Laguna Wilcacocha
Laguna Llaca
Laguna Parón
Laguna Rocotuyoc
Laguna Radian
Day 2–3 — Moderate hikes
Laguna Churup
Laguna 69
Laguna Hualcacocha
Following this step-by-step approach will help your body gradually adapt to the altitude, allowing you to fully enjoy your trekking experience with greater safety and comfort.
Itinerary · day by day
Detailed itinerary
Detailed day-by-day route with altitude, distances and campsite information.
LEGEND:
B
Breakfast
S
Snak
L
Lunch
T
Tea time
D
Dinner
Day A: Flight from Origin country to Lima / Arrive to Lima at 50 m / 160 ft
Arrival in Lima, a large city with a population of approximately 11 million. After arrival, enjoy time to rest. If you wish, you may explore the city independently.
OvernightLima · hotel
50 m / 160 ft
Day 1: Travel Lima to Huaraz 3,050 m / 10,030 ft via flight (LATAM Airline) or via bus (Cruz del Sur / bus company)
approx. 8 hoursTransfer
Bus Option: In the morning, according to your travel schedule, you will board the bus service Evolution Service / Cruz del sur company Departure location: Av. Javier Prado Este Nº 1109, Lima / Departure time: 9:30 AM The journey covers approximately 400 km and takes around 8 hours, with onboard service included. Travel along the scenic Pan-American Highway, heading north through the impressive Pacific coastal desert. The route continues into higher terrain, crossing the Cordillera Negra (Black Range) at Conococha Pass (4,020 m), then descending into the Callejon de Huaylas Valley toward Huaraz (3,050 m / 10,030 ft). After crossing the pass, you will enjoy spectacular views of the Cordillera Blanca, considered among the most impressive mountain landscapes in the world. Due to your arrival time, a trip briefing and packing information for the following days may be provided. arrival Estimated at Huaraz: around 18:00 PM.
Flight Option: Alternatively, you may take a flight from Lima to Huaraz. / Departure from International Airport, Jorge Chávez – Lima – Peru / Departure time: 7:20 AM / Flight duration: approximately 50 minutes. Upon arrival at Huaraz Airport, you will transfer by ground transportation for about 40 minutes to reach the town. The remainder of the day is free, allowing time to rest and acclimatize to the altitude.
OvernightHuaraz · hotel
3,050 m / 10,030 ft
Day 2: Huaraz – Transfer with Private Transportation to Santa Cruz Bridge – Trekking to laguna Wilcacocha at 3,750 m / 12,335 ft – Santa Cruz Bridge – Transfer Back to Huaraz
40 minutes (round trip)Transfer
5 km (round trip)Trek
Approx. 3–4 hours (total)Walk
Our day hike begins with pick-up from your hotel in Huaraz in private transportation (around 8:00–8:30 a.m.). From there, we drive south of the city along a well-paved road for approximately 20 minutes to Santa Cruz Bridge. The trail to Laguna Wilcacocha starts at a small parking area near the bridge. After a short break, we prepare for the hike and begin our ascent. The first section of the trail is a gradual climb along a footpath. As we gain elevation, the views become increasingly impressive. Along the way, we pass through Santa Cruz village, enjoying the peaceful rural landscape.
Upon reaching the shallow lake at 3,600 meters, you’ll be rewarded with a breathtaking panorama of the Cordillera Blanca, where numerous peaks rise dramatically side by side. Notable mountains visible from this vantage point include Huandoy, Huascarán, Copa, Vallunaraju, Ranrapalca, Churup, Huantsan, Shacsha, as well as the Yanamarey and Caullaraju group to the south. We’ll take time to find the perfect viewpoint to fully appreciate the sweeping scenery and capture memorable photos, followed by lunch with this spectacular backdrop. For the descent, we can either retrace our steps along the same trail or take an alternative route traversing toward Shansha village and finishing at Paria Bridge (this option is recommended only if your knees are in good condition). Whichever route you choose, our transportation will be waiting to take us back to Huaraz, arriving approximately between 13:30 and 14:00. Snack while walking.
Meals
SL
OvernightHuaraz · hotel
3,050 m / 10,030 ft
Day 3: Huaraz – Transfer with Private Transportation to Pitec 3,850 m / 12,665 ft – Trekking to Laguna Churup at 4,450 m / 16,640 ft – Pitec – Transfer Back to Huaraz
2 hours (round trip)Transfer
7 km (round trip)Trek
Approx. 4–5 hours (total)Walk
This day begins with pickup from your hotel at 8:00 am, then we transfer on a private vehicle from Huaraz until reaches Pitec at 3,850m. From there start the trek to Churup Lake on a moderate grade path with some steep sections, on the way we perceive various waterfalls. The last forty minutes of the hike up to the lake is a real scramble on slab rock along a waterfall, the headwaters of which are sourced at Lake Churup. Upon reaching the top of the waterfall, we will behold dramatic Churup Lake at 4,450m, which lies just below the impressive mount Churup.
Lake Churup displays a striking azure hue, with orange mineral deposits shimmering near the shoreline. Its remarkably clear waters reveal the rocky lakebed several meters below the surface. We’ll find a comfortable spot along the rocky edge to sit, enjoy lunch, relax, and take in the breathtaking mountain scenery. While the lake is stunning under bright sunshine, it can be just as captivating—if not more so—under cloudy, drizzly skies. In those moments, the landscape takes on an evocative, almost haunting character that leaves a lasting impression.
The return journey follows the same trail back to Pitec, where transportation will be waiting to take us back to Huaraz, arriving approximately between 14:00 and 14:30. Snack while walking.
Meals
SL
OvernightHuaraz · hotel
3,050 m / 10,030 ft
Day 4: Huaraz - Transfer with Private Transportation to Llaca Valley 4,400 m / 14,475 ft – Trekking to Morena Camp at 4,930 m / 16,220 ft
approx. 1.5 hoursTransfer
approx. 2 kilometersTrek
approx. 2–3 hours walkWalk
We will pick up you at your hotel with our private vehicle around 7:30 am. then we will drive from Huaraz to the east with our private transportation toward Llaca Valley. After 1.5 hours of driving, we will arrive at the mountain refuge belonging to the high mountain guides school at Llaca valley. Where is located the base camp, from there we will start walking up following the route that goes to the moraine on steeply grassy terrain, after one hour the rote becomes moderate grade with occasionally steep sections, however, the view is fantastic along the path. Once we arrived at the camping spot we will put on our tents, and later we will enjoy the superb vista around us.
Note: Please, understand for this day donkey support is not available. Therefore, each participant must carry their own personal equipment from Base Camp to Moraine Camp. You will need to carry your daypack with your personal gear, including: climbing equipment, clothing, sleeping bag and sleeping pad (foam mattress or thermal mat), extra warm layers, waterproof jacket and pants, water bottle, camera, hiking poles, technical climbing gear should include: a pair of technical ice axes, harness, crampons, mountaineering boots, carabiners, ATC belay device, helmet, Prusik cords, and slings. Our porters will carry the group climbing equipment, including tents, food, cooking gear, and ropes, but each climber is responsible for carrying their own personal and technical equipment.
Meals
SLTD
Overnightmoraine camp · tent
4,930 m / 16,220 ft
Day 5: Morena Camp – Attempt Vallunaraju summit at 5,686 m / 18,705 ft - Moraine camp – Trekking to Llaca Valley – Transfer with private transportation to Huaraz
approx. 10–12 hoursClimb
approx. 2 kilometersTrek
approx. 1.5 hoursTransfer
Summit day: as usual, we leave early, around 2:00 a.m. The first part of the route is a walk across rocky terrain until we reach the glacier. Once on the glacier, we put on our climbing gear, including crampons and harnesses. At the beginning, we usually encounter hard ice; later, the conditions improve and we walk on good snow, overcoming several steep slopes and negotiating multiple crevasses until reaching the high plateau glacier (the collado), located between the north and south peak. From there, we climb along the south slope as we approach the summit. The summit offers incredible views in every direction. After a short break for photos and to enjoy the splendid scenery, we descend via the same route, until Moraine Camp and then to Base Camp, where the trail ends. Our climb concludes here, Where the transport will be waiting for us to return to Huaraz. Once back in Huaraz, we can enjoy a nice shower at the hotel and some rest, followed by a good dinner in town to celebrate a successful climb. Snack while climbing.
Meals
BSL
OvernightHuaraz · hotel
3,050 m / 10,030 ft
Day 6: Day off in Huaraz
Rest day in the town to recover energy after climbing Vallunaraju. Prepare for the next goal Tocllaraju.
OvernightHuaraz · hotel
3,050 m / 10,030 ft
Day 7: Huaraz - Transfer with Private Transportation to Collon or Cochapampa 3,800 m / 12,500 ft – trekking to Tocllaraju Base Camp at 4,390 m / 14,390 ft
approx. 1 hourTransfer
approx. 13 kilometersTrek
approx. 4–5 hours walkWalk
We will pick you up from your hotel in our private vehicle around 7:30 a.m. Then we will drive through the fertile Callejón de Huaylas Valley for about 15 kilometers until reaching Puente Paltay. From there, we turn onto a dirt road that leads to the traditional trailhead villages of Collón or Pashpa, continuing until Cochapampa (3,600 m). From Cochapampa, we begin our hike up a pleasant valley toward Ishinca Base Camp. The trail passes through highland farmland with fantastic views of Mount Huascarán and Mount Vallunaraju before entering the beautiful Quebrada Ishinca. Along the Ishinca Valley, we walk through shady Queñual (Polylepis) forests. As we reach the wide grassy plateau, the valley opens up and reveals an impressive view of Mount Tocllaraju in the background. At Base Camp, the scenery is spectacular: a broad grassy valley spreads out below a massive terminal moraine, creating a dramatic alpine landscape. Snack + lunch while walking.
Meals
SLTD
OvernightTocllaraju Base camp · tent
4,390 m / 14,445 ft
Day 8: Tocllaraju Base camp – ascend Morena Camp at 5,000 m / 16,450 ft
approx. 1.5 kilometersTrek
approx. 2.5–3 hours walkWalk
This After enjoying a hearty breakfast at Base Camp, we begin our ascent toward Moraine Camp. During the first hour, we follow a gentle and moderately graded trail. After that, the route becomes much steeper as we continue climbing toward the camp. The trail ascends over loose and rocky terrain, requiring careful footing. After several hours of steady climbing, we finally reach Moraine Camp at approximately 5,000 meters, where we will rest and prepare for the summit attempt. Snack while walking.
Note: Please, understand for this day donkey support is not available. Therefore, each participant must carry their own personal equipment from Base Camp to Moraine Camp. You will need to carry your daypack with your personal gear, including: climbing equipment, clothing, sleeping bag and sleeping pad (foam mattress or thermal mat), extra warm layers, waterproof jacket and pants, water bottle, camera, hiking poles, technical climbing gear should include: a pair of technical ice axes, harness, crampons, mountaineering boots, carabiners, ATC belay device, helmet, Prusik cords, and slings. Our porters will carry the group climbing equipment, including tents, food, cooking gear, and ropes, but each climber is responsible for carrying their own personal and technical equipment.
Meals
BSLTD
OvernightTocllaraju Morena camp · tent
5,000 m / 16,450 ft
Day 9: Morena Camp - Attempt Summit Tocllaraju 6,030 m / 19,835 ft – Morena Camp – Base Camp
approx. 13–14 hoursClimb
Summit day: as usual, we leave early from the moraine camp around 1:00 am, on the west slope glacier occasionally overcoming some steep sections, on hard ice at the beginning. Necessarily we climb upon the Canaleta just before arriving at the north ridge, as soon as we reach it, we will be on the shoulder, we will follow on it overcoming several steep slopes of 45° - 55° & negotiating some crevasses until reaching the bergschrund, which is just below of splendid ice mushroom summit on the north ridge. After it, there are two pitches on good snow & ice. The first pitch is around 60 meters with 50° - 60° degrees, the second one is steeper and more exposed, but much shorter than the first one, probably this last one is around 20 meters or maybe more. Generally, in both sections is necessary to use two technical ice axes, and ice screws to protect, and make a good anchor. Overcoming the ice mushroom we will be on the summit, once on the top, we will enjoy the overwhelming view around us. After spending a few minutes capturing photos or simply enjoying the view we will retrace on the same route abseiling on some sections where is necessary until moraine camp – base camp. Snack while climbing.
Meals
BSTD
OvernightTocllaraju Base camp · tent
4,390 m / 14,440 ft
Day 10: Base Camp - Descent Through Quebrada Ishinca to Cochapampa - Transfer with Private Transportation to Huaraz
approx. 1 hourTransfer
approx. 13 kilometersTrek
approx. 4–5 hours walkWalk
We descend from Base Camp along the Ishinca Valley until reaching Cochapampa / Collón, where the trail ends Our climb concludes here, Where the transport will be waiting for us to return to Huaraz. Once back in Huaraz, we can enjoy a nice shower at the hotel and some rest, followed by a good dinner in town to celebrate a successful climb. Snack while climbing.
Meals
BSL
OvernightHuaraz · hotel
3,050 m / 10,030 ft
Day 11: Day off in Huaraz
Rest day in the town to recover energy after climbing Vallunaraju. Prepare for the next goal Tocllaraju.
OvernightHuaraz · hotel
3,050 m / 10,030 ft
Day 12: Huaraz - Transfer with Private Transportation to Cashapampa 2,990 m / 9,835 ft – trekking to llama coral at 3,750 m / 12,300 ft
approx. 3–3.5 hoursTransfer
approx. 6 kilometersTrek
approx. 4–5 hours walkWalk
We will pick up you at your hotel with our private vehicle. As we drive through the rich Callejón de Huaylas valley. On the way, we will stop at anta to appreciate the spectacular views of the Andes including the western face of Peru’s highest peak, Huascaran (22,205 ft). Then we will follow driving along Callejon de Huaylas until Caraz, and Cashapampa village, where we will meet with the donkeys & the donkey driver. We will begin our trek by walking along the right bank of the Santa Cruz River. This narrow valley has sparkling waterfalls, forest, groves, & highland bushes, our trail will pass under looming rock towers and rockslides until arriving at our campsite, located in a wide meadow with a spectacular view of the valley’s head. Snack + lunch while walking.
Meals
SLTD
OvernightLlama coral camp · tent
3,750 m / 12,335 ft
Day 13: Camp llama coral – Trekking to Alpamayo base camp at 4,350 m / 14,310 ft
approx. 11 kilometersTrek
approx. 4–5 hours walkWalk
This day we will walk up on gently a grade uphill, passing the beautiful mountain lakes of Ichiccocha and Jatuncocha, hiking upon green lush valley until Quisuar, from it we walk upon a steep hill but the trail winds up on switchbacks until reaching Alpamayo viewpoint at Arhueycocha gorge. There offers a superb view of mount alpamayo east face, despite not being one of the higher summits but is highly demanded by many mountaineers. Alpamayo in 1966 an international survey was declared as the most beautiful mountain in the globe and this beauty draws climbers from afar by its spectacular pyramidal shape on the north face and lovely ice fluted on the southwest face. Even that is perfect point as well to appreciate the dramatic vista of artezonraju, the angle the peak bears a striking resemblance to paramount studios logo. Keep walking up we will reach the Alpamayo base camp at Arhueycocha valley. Snack + lunch while walking.
Meals
BSLTD
OvernightAlpamayo Base Camp · tent
4,350 m / 14,310 ft
Day 14: Alpamayo Base camp – ascend Morena Camp at 4,900 m / 16,076 ft
approx. 1–1.5 kilometersTrek
approx. 3–4 hours walkWalk
After enjoying a hearty breakfast at Base Camp, we begin our ascent toward Moraine Camp, located just below the glacier on polished granite rock slabs. At the beginning of the climb, we follow steep and sometimes very steep sections of trail, crossing slippery ground as well as loose and rocky terrain. After several hours of steady climbing, we reach Moraine Camp at approximately 5,000 meters. From this camp, the views are truly spectacular, especially looking east and south toward the magnificent peaks of Pucajirca, Paria, and Artesonraju. Snack + lunch while walking.
Note: Please, understand for this day donkey support is not available. Therefore, each participant must carry their own personal equipment from Base Camp to Moraine Camp. You will need to carry your daypack with your personal gear, including: climbing equipment, clothing, sleeping bag and sleeping pad (foam mattress or thermal mat), extra warm layers, waterproof jacket and pants, water bottle, camera, hiking poles, technical climbing gear should include: a pair of technical ice axes, harness, crampons, mountaineering boots, carabiners, ATC belay device, helmet, Prusik cords, and slings. Our porters will carry the group climbing equipment, including tents, food, cooking gear, and ropes, but each climber is responsible for carrying their own personal and technical equipment.
Meals
BSLTD
OvernightAlpamayo Morena Camp · tent
4,900 m / 16,120 ft
Day 15: Morena Camp – Ascend to High Camp at 5,300 m / 17,435 ft
approx. 3–4 hours walkWalk
After breakfast, we begin our hike toward the glacier. Once we reach it, we put on our climbing gear. After roping up, we start ascending the rolling glacier, carefully negotiating several crevasses and climbing sections of snow and ice slopes of about 45° until we reach the hard ice at the base of the ice cliff. From there, there are three main sections to climb:
First pitch: around 15 meters on hard ice at approximately 65° depending of ye season Second pitch: around 60 meters on solid snow at about 50° Third pitch: around 60 meters on solid snow at around 60°
Usually, these sections require the use of two technical ice axes to safely overcome the steep terrain. After completing these pitches, we reach the high pass (col) between Mount Alpamayo and Mount Quitaraju, located on a high glacier plateau. Snack while climbing.
Meals
BSTD
OvernightAlpamayo high Camp · tent
5,300 m / 17,435 ft
Day 16: High Camp - Attempt Summit Alpamayo 5,947 m / 19,565 ft – High Camp – Morena Camp – Base Camp
approx. 14–16 hoursClimb
Route Conditions and Summit Day: Until mid-July 2025, the most commonly climbed route on the southwest face was the French Vasque route. However, a large ice cornice appeared hanging over the left side of the route, creating a serious objective danger for climbers. Because of this hazard, many teams began climbing via the French Direct route instead, which is longer but generally considered safer. The French Direct route is approximately 450 meters long and usually requires about 7–8 pitches of 60 meters each to reach the summit ridge.
Summit day: As usual, we leave from High Camp around 12:00 a.m. to begin our ascent. The route chosen may vary depending on the conditions of the mountain. If we choose the French straight Route, the First section is to cross the glacier between High Camp and the bergschrund, carefully negotiating several crevasses until reaching the base of the southwest ice-fluted face. After crossing the bergschrund, we begin climbing the steep face composed of mixed snow and hard ice, where the use of two technical ice axes is essential. The first 2–3 pitches are usually climbed on good snow slopes of about 50°–55°. The upper pitches are typically on excellent ice, ranging from 60° to 75°. The final section of the last pitch may reach around 80° before gaining the summit ridge. Once we reach the summit, the difficulty can vary from year to year. In some seasons it is possible to reach the absolute highest point of the mountain, while in other years an unstable cornice may block the final section of the ridge. From the summit ridge, the views are panoramic and extraordinary, offering unforgettable scenery across the Cordillera Blanca. The descent follows the same route, usually requiring around 7–8 rappels to return safely to High Camp. Snack while climbing.
Meals
BSTD
OvernightAlpamayo Base Camp · tent
4,350 m / 14,310 ft
Day 17: Base Camp - Descent Through Quebrada Santa Cruz to Cashapampa - Transfer with Private Transportation to Huaraz
approx. 3–3.5 hoursTransfer
approx. 15 kilometersTrek
approx. 6–7 hours walkWalk
We walk down along the Santa Cruz valley; the trail will end at cashapampa village. Finish Our Climb. Where the transport will be waiting for us to return to Huaraz. Back to Huaraz for a nice shower in the hotel and some rest, then to enjoy a good dinner celebrating in y the town after a successful climbing. Snack + lunch while walking.
Meals
BSL
OvernightHuaraz · hotel
3,050 m / 10,030 ft
Day 18: Travel from Huaraz to Lima via flight (LATAM Airline) or via Bus (Cruz del Sur bus company / arrive to lima
approx. 8 hoursTransfer
Bus option: Morning Bus according to your travel schedule, boarding bus service (departure place, Jr.Teresa Gonzales de Faning 457-Centenario. / Departure Time around: 9:30 AM). The transfer takes 400 km, around 8 hours journey with board service, arrive to lima approx. 18:00 pm.
Flight option: If you take flight to travel Huaraz - Lima / this service takes around 50 minutes to arrive Lima. (Departure place is from Huaraz airport departure time: 7:20 AM). After arriving in the Lima airport, you move with a transportation for around 40 minutes to arrive the lima down town Miraflores or San Isidro, or you may wait at the international airport to connect your flight to your country.
OvernightLima · hotel
50 m / 160 ft
Day B: Stay in lima or travel to your origin country
Stay in lima or travel to your origin country.
The Itinerary above is just and suggested program. We are flexible you are completely free to build your own program, according to your necessity and preferences
Include · Not include · extras · what bring
Services of the itinerary
What is included in the cost?
Pre-departure briefing: one of our team members will come to the hotel to provide detailed information about the climbs of Vallunaraju + Tocllaraju and Alpamayo. During this meeting, any questions or special requests regarding the climb can be addressed. The briefing will take place strictly at the scheduled time, 24 hours before the trip begins.
Acclimatization program around Huaraz (laguna wilcacocha + laguna churup / with full support of: private round-trip transportation, trekking guide & box lunch for the hike
Private transportation for ClimbingVallunaraju / Round- trip private transportation between (Huaraz – Llaca Valley/ Llaca Valley – Huaraz)
Private transportation forclimbing Tocllaraju/ Round- trip private transportation between (Huaraz – Collon or Cochapampa/ Collon or Cochapampa – Huaraz
Private transportation for climbing Alpamayo/ Round- trip private transportation between (Huaraz –Cashapampa /Cashapampa – Huaraz.
Hotel Pick-up and Drop-off: We provide pick-up and drop-off at your hotel according to the trip program. Pick-ups and drop-offs are included only for hotels located in the downtown area. For hotels outside the downtown area, additional charges may apply depending on the location
An experienced international bilingual mountain guide, certified by AGMP, UIAGM, and IFGMA, will accompany you on climbing Vallunaraju + Tocllaraju and Alpamayo. Your guide will ensure your safety, comfort, and peace of mind, allowing you to fully enjoy the climb without worry.
A dedicated mountain cook will accompany you on the, Vallunaraju + Tocllaraju and Alpamayo climbs. Specializing in high-altitude cooking, the chef will prepare all meals along the trek & climb program, ensuring you are well-nourished and energized throughout your expedition. You’ll never go hungry!
Four Healthy Meals per Day: Enjoy hearty breakfasts, snacks, cooked lunches, tea times, and hot dinners throughout your expedition. Vegetarian dishes or special menus are available at no extra cost. Please indicate any allergies or dietary restrictions on your reservation form and remind your guide during the pre-departure briefing. You’ll be well-fed with breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks, and hot drinks to keep your energy up for the climbs.
Daily Trail Snacks: Each morning at the camping spot, you will receive a selection of local fresh fruits, biscuits, chocolate, caramels, and more, packed in a reusable cloth bag. Your snack bag will be refilled every morning, so you can enjoy nourishing snacks throughout your day.
Cloth Snack Bag: Each participant will receive one reusable cloth snack bag to carry daily snacks. This eco-friendly bag helps reduce plastic waste and protect the environment while you enjoy your Expedition.
Daily Tea Time: Every afternoon, after arriving at the campsite and before dinner, the cooks will serve a light appetizer, including options like popcorn, biscuits, coffee, hot chocolate, tea, hot water, guacamole, and fried roots. After a long day of hiking, or climbing, you can relax, warm up, and enjoy a snack without waiting for dinner.
Donkey (mules) + donkey driver service not available for Climbing Vallunaraju
Donkeys, (mules)! Available for climbing Tocllaraju + Alpamayo until base camp
Donkey driver. ! Available for climbing Tocllaraju + Alpamayo until base camp
Mountain Porters: they will assist you on the Vallunaraju and Tocllaraju climbs, transporting shared climbing equipment between (Base Camp → Morena Camp → Base Camp). For Alpamayo, they will carry equipment from Base Camp → High Camp → Base Camp. (round trip)
Hygiene Supplies: Each day, a small bucket with warm water, a towel, and liquid soap will be available near the kitchen or dining tent. You can wash your hands anytime you wish, ensuring comfort and hygiene throughout your expedition.
Group Medical Kit and Safety: Our crew will carry a complete first-aid kit, and all climbing guides are trained in first aid. Your guide will always have a personal first-aid kit and oxygen to handle basic emergencies such as altitude sickness, traveler’s diarrhea, cuts, or scrapes. If necessary, we will evacuate you promptly from the expedition and ensure you receive proper treatment at a clinic or the hospital.
Camping equipment: in Tocllaraju and Alpamayo, , at least at the Base Camps, we provide all necessary camping equipment, including cooking and dining tents, as well as chairs and tables according to the number of participants.
Toilet Tent: To help protect the environment, a toilet tent is provided at all camping spots where its use is permitted. This ensures hygiene while minimizing impact on the natural surroundings.
Camping Equipment for Climbing Vallunaraju: For the Vallunaraju climb, only sleeping tents are provided. Other camping equipment, such as dining or cooking tents, is not available on this climb
Accommodation:Enjoy 09 nights in shared sleeping tents throughout the Expedition. A single supplement tent is available upon request for an additional cost.
Sleeping Tent: Each sleeping tent is high-quality, comfortable, and multi-season, designed for two people with ample space for a restful night after a long day of expedition.
One foamy sleeping pad per person
Group Climbing Gear: All essential group climbing equipment and protective hardware are provided, including ropes, snow pickets, ice screws, stoves, and all other supplies necessary to ensure a safe and well-supported attempt at the summit.
Full Utensil kitchen for everybody
Radio communicator and cell phone in places of coverage: our main priority will always be the safety of our clients and our team. While we are prepared and all our guides are trained for most of the problems that clients have on the mountain. Call by cell phone in a place where there is coverage in any case of an emergency or an incident, or get in touch with the office, which is in the town, making use of the radio communicator, this will help everyone feel safe that they are safe.
We will create a lifetime experience for you.
What doesn't included
Transfer in lima (lima airport – lima hotel – airport (arrival & departure day)
Booking Ho(s)tel for accommodation in lima
Transfer in lima (lima hotel – bus station to Huaraz – lima hotel (arrival & departure day)
Booking Bus or flight ticket to transfer from (Lima – Huaraz – Lima)
Transfers in Huaraz (transfer from Huaraz airport or bus station – Huaraz hotel – Huaraz bus station or airport (arrival & departure day)
Entrance fee ticket or trekking permits (150 soles per participant) for all circuit
Meal and beverages during the stay in Huaraz (breakfast – lunch & dinner)
Extra food on our trip
Personal Climbing equipment for the ascents of Vallunaraju + Tocllaraju and Alpamayo
Additional tours.
Sleeping-bag (from – 15 ºC to – 20º C)
Travel insurance assistance
In case of sickness while on the Climb, emergency costs for transportation, etc. are not included.
Phone calls, access to internet cabins & other extra expenses
Laundry service
Personal toilets.
Personal medicines.
Tips for the staff
What to bring
Clothing & Layers
Approaching or hiking shoes: A good pair of hiking shoes is the most important piece of gear for your trek expedition. Poorly fitting shoes can lead to lost toenails, painful blisters, and sore feet. Choose footwear that fits well and is already broken in. As a guideline, B0 or B1-rated shoes are advisable. There are many reliable brands on the market, including Millet, Salewa, La Sportiva, The North Face, Simond, Lowa, and others.
Climbing boots: for most non-technical 5000–6000 m peaks, a B2-rated mountaineering boot is the sweet spot: stiff enough for semi-automatic crampons (C2), warm enough for glacier travel and alpine starts, but still comfortable for long approaches. B2 boots typically have a rear heel welt for hybrid crampons. “Double boots” become more useful when temperatures drop well below freezing, you expect multiday snow camping, or you climb in consistently wet conditions. For peaks around the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, many climbers use insulated B2 or lighter double boots successfully. The G2 Evo is one of the best modern options if you want warmth without the bulk of expedition boots. It climbs well, walks surprisingly comfortably, and is ideal for cold alpine routes and technical glacier travel. Best lightweight B2 option: La Sportiva Aequilibrium ST GTX, Scarpa Nepal Evo GTX, Scarpa Ribelle Lite HD, scarpa Fanton 6,000,
Socks: We recommend bringing two pairs of socks for your approach shoes. Many people also prefer wearing a thin liner sock underneath, as it can help reduce friction, prevent blisters, and improve overall comfort
Underwear
Quick-drying base layers: A synthetic base layer is recommended over cotton or wool for better moisture management. Long sleeves are preferable for added protection and warmth.
Lightweight cotton or synthetic pants: Cotton or synthetic hiking pants are suitable for trekking and provide comfort and flexibility & moving around camp
Mid-layer: A medium-weight fleece or synthetic insulated jacket for warmth and layering. (such as: PrimaLoft, Polar Tec, or merino wool).
Down or micro-down jacket: Suitable for cold conditions and high-altitude temperatures providing essential warmth in cold conditions (optional but highly recommended).
Lightweight waterproof shell jackets (e.g., Gore-Tex): are highly recommended for protection in cooler conditions. Reliable brands include Patagonia, Mammut, Eider, Millet, Marmot, Symonds, and others.
Waterproof over-trousers (e.g., Gore-Tex): pants with side zippers are highly recommended. It’s also worthwhile to have lightweight synthetic climbing pants with a durable finish. Slightly stretchy fabrics like Schoeller are ideal for comfort and mobility. Reliable brands include Patagonia, Mammut, Eider, Millet, Marmot, Symonds, and others.
Sun hat: A wide-brim hat or a baseball cap with a bandanna safety-pinned to it helps protect your face and neck from the sun
Warm wool or synthetic hat: A lightweight, packable hat made from wool or synthetic materials is essential. It should be easy to fold and store in your backpack when not in use.
Balaclava or Neck gaiter: A medium-weight wool or synthetic neck gaiter is highly versatile. It provides protection from the cold and wind and can also be used as an ear warmer or face covering when needed.
Sun glasses: Essential for high-altitude trekking around Huaraz, where UV intensity is strong and glare from snow is significant. Choose any brand you prefer, but ensure they provide high UV protection. Category 4 lenses are recommended for trekking.
Gloves: For climbs of any summits in Cordillera Blanca, you want gloves that balance warmth, waterproofing, dexterity, and durability with ice axes/ropes. A very common setup is: A pair lighter softshell glove for the approach and warmer sections A pair insulated Gore-Tex shell glove for summit day and cold mornings Optional thin liner gloves for camp or layering For your use case, insulated Gore-Tex alpine gloves are the best choice — warm enough for pre-dawn glacier starts, but still dexterous enough for clipping, jumaring, and axe handling
Gaiters: Gaiters are required for most climbs in the Cordillera Blanca to protect your boots and feet from fresh snow, moisture, and debris.
Climbing Equipment
Climbing Helmet: A climbing helmet is recommended for all peak ascents to ensure your safety.
Harness: A harness with adjustable leg loops is recommended, large enough to fit comfortably over all layers of clothing. Be sure it includes a belay loop.
Technical Ice Axes (Pair): Two technical ice axes are recommended for climbs such as Yanapaccha, Tocllaraju, Chopicalqui, Huascarán, Alpamayo, and other advanced alpine routes.
Regular Ice Axe: A standard mountaineering ice axe is suitable for climbs such as Pisco, Urus, Ishinca, and Vallunaraju, among others.
Crampons with Anti-Balling Plates: These rubber or plastic plates attach beneath crampons to prevent snow from building up in soft conditions. Alpine crampons are recommended.
Carabiners: If you are climbing with a guide service, three locking carabiners and two non-locking carabiners are generally sufficient. Climbers without a guide may require additional technical gear and equipment.
Rappel and Belay Device: An ATC-style belay and rappel device is recommended, such as models from Black Diamond Equipment or Petzl.
Daisy Chain: Essential for big wall climbing and technical anchor systems.
Sunglasses: High-quality sunglasses with strong UV protection are essential due to the intense sun exposure and snow glare in Huaraz and the Peruvian Andes. Category 4 lenses are recommended for alpine climbing.
Prusik Loops or Slings: A pair of prusik loops or slings is necessary for rappelling and glacier rescue systems.
Ascender / Tibloc: One ascender (right- or left-handed) or a Tibloc device is recommended, depending on the guide’s preference. Models from Black Diamond Equipment or Petzl are commonly used.
Ice Screws (2): Two ice screws are recommended when climbing with a guide. Models from Black Diamond Equipment or other reputable brands are suitable.
Camping Equipment
Sleeping Bag: For high camps on climbs up to approximately 5,200 m, a sleeping bag rated to around -15°C is recommended. For climbs above 6,000 m, a bag rated between -20°C and -25°C is advised. Higher camps may require even warmer insulation.
Sleeping Pad: A foam sleeping pad or insulated air mattress, such as a Therm-a-Rest ProLite or NeoAir, is recommended for greater comfort and insulation at high camps.
Water Bottles: Two / 1-liter wide-mouth water bottles are recommended, such as those from Nalgene
Hydration systems (Camel Bak-style reservoirs): are not recommended, as the hose may freeze during climbing days.
Water Treatment: Chlorine dioxide tablets or other purification systems, such as Micropur, are optional but useful for treating drinking water.
Headlamp: A headlamp with extra batteries is essential. LED models from Petzl or Black Diamond are highly recommended.
Sunscreen: A high-quality sunscreen is important for protection against strong UV exposure at altitude.
Lip Balm: Lip balm with UV protection is recommended to prevent dryness and sun damage.
Insect Repellent: Optional, but useful in lower valleys and campsites.
Pocket Knife: Optional for general camp use and small repairs.
Pee Bottles: Two 1-liter wide-mouth bottles, such as those from Nalgene, are optional but convenient for use during cold nights at high camp.
Thermos: An optional 1-liter stainless steel vacuum thermos is useful for keeping drinks warm during summit days and cold evenings.
Specific Equipment
Trekking poles: Hiking or trekking poles are very useful, ideally in a compact three-section design. Good poles help reduce impact on your knees and joints. We recommend lightweight, adjustable models, as they are easy to store and versatile. Brands such as Black Diamond and Leki are excellent choices.
Duffel bag / rucksack: A durable duffel bag (around 60 liters) with a padlock is required. These bags will be carried by burros to the Camping spots, so they must be strong and abrasion-resistant.
Daypack: A 40–45 liters backpack is needed to carry spare clothing, snacks, a camera, and water during day hikes or climbing days.
Personal first aid kit: We recommend carrying a small, well-prepared personal first aid kit including sterile dressings, antiseptic cream, gauze, bandages, rehydration sachets, zinc oxide tape, and anti-inflammatory pain relievers such as ibuprofen or aspirin. It is also advisable to bring paracetamol and acetazolamide (Diamox) for the prevention and treatment of mild acute mountain sickness (AMS) symptoms. For digestive issues, include loperamide for diarrhea, and antibiotics such as ciprofloxacin or Bactrim for bacterial stomach infections (only if prescribed by your doctor). Additionally, we suggest carrying a small roll of adhesive tape and cough drops for basic relief during the trek.
Personal Toiletries: Bring basic toiletries such as a toothbrush, a small tube of toothpaste, dental floss, and contact lens solution (if needed). Include a small bar of soap and a compact hand towel or washcloth. On most expeditions, warm washing water can be provided at Base Camp in the morning and afternoon. A small synthetic hand towel or washcloth is useful for sponge baths. Also bring toilet paper for personal use.
Extra service available upon Request
Optional: If you wish, we can arrange & include in the program budget:
hotel accommodations in Lima (please let us know your preferred hotel)
Bus or flight ticket booking to travel (Lima – Huaraz – Lima) either by bus with Cruz del Sur or by flight with LATAM Airlines. Just let us know your preferences
Price & More details
Prices & Booking
Season:
Mid of May – Begin of September
We organize this combined program of climbing Vallunaraju and the climb of Tocllaraju &Alpamayo, either on a private basis or in small groups. This expedition is suitable for individual travelers, groups of friends, families, adventure companies, and tour leaderswho wish to experience high-altitude climbing in the Cordillera Blanca with professional local support. All trips are operated with fully qualified local mountain guides, ensuring safety, quality logistics, and authentic Andean Mountain experiences. Please feel free to contact us to discuss the itinerary and your preferred travel dates. We will be happy to prepare a personalized quotation, with no obligation.
Cost on private service with version of camping support:
We can tailor the itinerary and services to your specific needs. Contact us for a custom quote and dedicated logistics planning.
Add-Ons & Extras Not Included in the Budget
Enhance your climbing expedition with the following optional services and upgrades. These can be arranged and added to your program upon request.
ServicePrice
Hotel accommodation in Lima
Please let us know your preferred hotel category or name
On request
Hotel Package in Huaraz – San Sebastián (***) Single Room
Standard single room, includes breakfast and excellent location
From USD $ 60
per night
Hotel Package in Huaraz – San Sebastián (***) Double Room
Standard double room, includes breakfast and excellent location
From USD $ 90
per night
Bus ticket booking (Lima – Huaraz – Lima)
Round-trip ticket with Cruz del Sur Bus Company
From USD $ 60
per participant
Flight ticket booking (Lima – Huaraz – Lima)
Flights with LATAM Airlines. Prices vary depending on availability at the time of booking
On request
Sleeping bag rental
Rated from –10°C to –25°C, professionally cleaned
USD $ 10–15
per day
Trekking poles rental
Lightweight and adjustable
USD $ 10
per day
Single tent upgrade
Subject to availability
USD $12
per day
Satellite phone rental
Subject to availability
USD $20
per day
Lima airport transfers
Private transfers can be arranged
On request
Huaraz airport or bus station transfers
Private transfers can be arranged
On request
Booking & payment policy:
To confirm your reservation about your Huayhuash trek, a deposit of 25% of the total program price is required at the time of booking. The remaining balance must be paid in cash upon arrival in Huaraz, no later than 48 hours before the expedition begins. We offer a flexible cancellation policy. If your plans change, please contact us as early as possible so we can discuss available options and rescheduling possibilities.
Payment Methods:
Cash in Huaraz
Recomended
Not additional fees.
Bank transfer
Accepted, a USD $60 bank fee applies.
Credit/Debit card
Accepted; a 6% processing fee applies.
Western union
Transactions incur a commission of 3% to 5%.
Early Booking
5%
Discount
Early Booking Discount
A 5% discount is offered for reservations made 5 months in advance of the expedition start date. The discount is applied to the total program price.
Students & groups of 6+ — Eligible for special group discounts.
Private service:
100% Private & Safety-Guaranteed
We offer 100% guaranteed private multi-day treks for any group size. Enjoy a comfortable, highly personalized experience with flexible itineraries tailored for your safety, acclimatization, and overall enjoyment. All departures are 100% guaranteed, once the reservation has been confirmed
The Premium Difference:
From the very beginning, ANDES ADVENTURE HOLOIDAYS E.I.R.L, has focused on delivering premium, personalized trekking experiences — rather than low-cost, high-volume tours.
Professional Operations
Careful logistics and responsible operations designed for high standards of service and uncompromised safety.
Premium Gear & Transport
Top-quality camping and safety equipment, along with reliable modern private transportation.
Small Group Sizes
Maximum 8 participants to guarantee a personalized, comfortable, and highly attentive experience.
Expert Local Staff
Highly experienced bilingual mountain guides, mountain cooks, and dedicated local staff.
Our pricing reflects the true cost of operating professionally and responsibly, ensuring a high standard of service, safety, comfort, and authentic life time experiences.
Adicional notes:
Acclimatization Hikes
Proper acclimatization to altitude is essential before undertaking any Climbing expeditions in the Cordillera Blanca or Cordillera Huayhuash, in order to avoid loss of energy or altitude-related illnesses. Climbing above 5,000 m is physically demanding, even when the terrain is not steep or highly technical. For any peak-climbing expedition in the Cordillera Blanca, we strongly recommend a minimum of 2–3 days of acclimatization before the ascent.
Acclimatization for Climbing All climbing Expeditions programs in the Cordillera Blanca are physically demanding, as you will spend most of the time at elevations between 4,000 and 5,000 m, with rapid altitude gain shortly after departing from Huaraz. Proper acclimatization is essential to reduce the risk of altitude-related illness.
Our expeditions are carefully designed with a gradual acclimatization program to help your body adjust safely to the altitude. We recommend following the itinerary as planned. If you have extra time, arriving earlier is highly advisable so you can spend at least one full day resting and recovering from your journey before the expedition begins.
Some Considerations
The Peruvian general sales tax (I.G.V) 18% is not included in the rate shown.
The cost shown does not include the cost of the pre-payment transaction for early booking.
How to book this climbing expedition program, you can make a reservation by sending us an email or using the reservation form provided on our website or via WhatsApp.
Booking Confirmation: To confirm your booking with us, you must make a deposit of 25% of the total price. The remaining balance must be paid in cash upon arrival in Huaraz, strictly 48 hours before the tour begins.
Once you have made the deposit, please send the payment voucher via email or WhatsApp. If you booked online, kindly message us on WhatsApp so we can stay in contact, coordinate your briefing, and provide useful recommendations for your trek program.
Fast and Easy Communication: All emails are answered as soon as possible to ensure fast and easy communication.
Communication Options: We offer several ways to stay in touch with us. You can contact us through online chat, WhatsApp, Instagram, or via the email on our website. Simply fill out the reservation form or send us an email to ensure easy and personalized communication with our team.
Guiding Ratio on Climbing Mount Vallunaraju + Tocllaraju & Alpamayo
Climbing Vallunaraju: For non-technical or moderately difficult (PD) summits, we use a 3:1 client-to-guide ratio, meaning a maximum of three clients per guide. Due to the technical nature of the route, larger groups (more than three clients) will be accompanied by additional guides as required. We believe that maintaining a lower client-to-guide ratio significantly increases overall safety during the climb.
Climbing Tocllaraju + Alpamayo: For technical level summits with (AD) difficulty, the guiding ratio is 2:1, meaning a maximum of two clients per guide. This ratio is maintained due to the technical nature of the routes and to ensure a higher level of safety during the climb. If the group is larger than two clients, additional guides will be assigned as necessary. We believe that maintaining a low guide-to-client ratio significantly increases safety and provides better support throughout the climb.
Grading Summit
Vallunaraju: 5,686 m / PD
Tocllaraju: 6,030 m / AD
Alpamayo: 5,947 m / AD
Grade PD: Mostly glacier travel, suitable for first time climbers, but physically demanding. Grade AD: Snow wall climbing, suitable for intermediate & advanced level climbers – physically demanding.
Vallunaraju (5,686 m) is graded (PD) and involves moderate snow climbing, making it suitable for beginners who want to gain experience in high-altitude mountaineering. However, despite the moderate technical level, the climb is physically demanding due to the altitude. It is considered one of the most important training mountains in the Cordillera Blanca, combining a relatively accessible approach with an excellent snow-covered glacier, that is ideal for practicing, climbing course. From the summit, climbers are rewarded with spectacular views of the Huascarán massif and many of the most beautiful and aesthetic peaks of the Cordillera Blanca.
Tocllaraju (6,030 m) and Alpamayo (5,947 m) are graded (AD) and involve steep snow and ice wall climbing, making them suitable for intermediate to advanced-level climbers. These climbs are physically demanding and require solid technical mountaineering skills.
Climbing Tocllaraju and Alpamayo is not advisable for beginners, as these beautiful summits require significant technical experience in mountaineering. Climbers should already be comfortable with prior knowledge of: Roping up and glacier travel, moving safely on exposed and steep snow slopes, Crampon techniques, skills using two technical ice axes, Rappelling techniques, Belay on / belay off knowledge, Building and using anchors on snow & ice walls and wide experience on glacier travel and high-altitude climbing is essential. These peaks are ideal objectives for intermediate and advanced level climbers, who are seeking a challenging and unforgettable mountaineering experience in the Cordillera Blanca.
Climbing Routes
On our website and in our informational PDFs, we generally describe the normal (standard) routes used to climb each mountain.
Vallunaraju – Normal Route: West Slope & Southwest Ridge
Vallunaraju is a relatively easy peak, suitable for beginners. However, it is important to complete a proper acclimatization process before attempting the summit and to be in good physical condition. This route is straightforward and accessible for those who are fit and well-acclimatized, using a standard ice axe for climbing. It offers an excellent opportunity to practice basic mountaineering techniques in a stunning high-altitude environment.
Tocllaraju – Normal Route: West Slope & North Ridge
The normal route for Tocllaraju, which we describe on our website www.andesadventureholidays.com, follows the west slope and north ridge via the Ishinca Valley. This is the most commonly used route and is suitable for climbers who are fit and well-acclimatized. The climb requires the use of two ice axes and provides an excellent introduction to technical high-altitude glacier climbing.
Alpamayo: South Glacier Slope & Southwest Snow and Ice Wall
Alpamayo is a challenging climb and requires climbers to be in excellent physical condition and well-acclimatized before attempting the summit. These routes are feasible for climbers who are fit, experienced, and equipped with two technical ice axes.
Important Note: Conditions on all peaks in the Cordillera Blanca change frequently, from year to year, even from month to month. The route descriptions we provide are based on the most recent season, and should be considered referential only. By the time of your ascent, both route conditions and mountain features may have changed significantly, but mountain conditions can vary significantly due to weather, glacier retreat, and other natural factors. Because of rapid glacier changes and global warming, route descriptions in guidebooks may become outdated within a year or more. Always rely on updated information from local guides before attempting any expedition.
Mountain Guides & Certifications
The guide who will accompany you is a bilingual professional, an expert in mountaineering with extensive experience, and holds international certifications including UIAGM, IFMGA, and AGMP.
Advices for Climbing Vallunaraju + Climbing Tocllaraju & Climbing Alpamayo
Note: Please understand for Climbing Vallunaraju, from base camp – Morena Camp – base camp, for this summit, we will not have donkey and donkey driver support. Therefore, each participant must carry their own personal equipment from Base Camp to Moraine Camp. You will need to carry your daypack with your personal gear, including: climbing equipment, clothing, sleeping bag and sleeping pad (foam mattress or thermal mat), extra warm layers, waterproof jacket and pants, water bottle, camera, hiking poles, technical climbing gear should include: a pair of technical ice axes, harness, crampons, mountaineering boots, carabiners, ATC belay device, helmet, Prusik cords, and slings. Our porters will carry the group climbing equipment, including tents, food, cooking gear, and ropes, but each climber is responsible for carrying their own personal and technical equipment.
For the ascents of Tocllaraju and Alpamayo, donkey service with donkey driver will be arranged up to base camp. All climbing equipment and personal gear will be transported by donkeys to base camp. Meanwhile from base camp – Morena camp – high camp / high camp – Morena camp – base camp, we do not have donkey support. So, each participant must carry their own personal equipment from Base Camp to Moraine Camp. You will need to carry your daypack with your personal gear, including: climbing equipment, clothing, sleeping bag and sleeping pad (foam mattress or thermal mat), extra warm layers, waterproof jacket and pants, water bottle, camera, hiking poles, technical climbing gear should include: a pair of technical ice axes, harness, crampons, mountaineering boots, carabiners, ATC belay device, helmet, Prusik cords, and slings. Our porters will carry the group climbing equipment, including tents, food, cooking gear, and ropes, but each climber is responsible for carrying their own personal and technical equipment.
Tips for Climbing Vallunaraju + Climbing Tocllaraju + Climbing Alpamayo
It is advisable to be in good physical condition before starting these ascents. You will enjoy the climbs much more if you are well prepared. We recommend running, cycling, going to the gym, or jogging for about 30 minutes a day at least three times per week for three months before your trip. Hiking uphill and downhill with a backpack weighing 10–15 kg is also highly recommended, ideally in variable weather conditions to strengthen your legs and improve endurance. Prior physical conditioning is important. Activities such as rock climbing, mountaineering practice, and glacier travel training are also very beneficial.
Remember that if you are well acclimatized and in good physical condition, you will truly enjoy the climbing experience.
The Porter Service
Porters will be responsible for carrying the group or collective climbing equipment, including sleeping tents, food supplies, kitchen utensils, ropes, and other necessary climbing equipment. Please note that the porters will carry both the collective expedition equipment and their own personal gear in large backpacks. The standard load for a porter is between 15 kg and 25 kg, including their personal equipment.
If you would like assistance carrying your personal climbing equipment, a personal porter service can be arranged upon request for an additional cost. Please note that this service is not included in the standard expedition quote.
Climbing Hours & Trekking Routes
The climbing times indicated are approximate and based on the average pace of our previous expedition groups. Individual climbing speeds may vary, with some climbers moving faster and others more slowly.
Approximation trek routes: Access roads to and from the trekking routes are generally unpaved dirt roads. In some sections the roads can be rough and bumpy, which means travel times may be slower than expected.
A Typical Climbing Day Routine
If you have climbed in the mountains before, you will find that the daily routine is quite similar. In our climbing programs, the day usually begins at 7:00 a.m. with breakfast. On summit days, however, the schedule is different. The start time depends on the specific mountain and route, but we typically begin the ascent around 1:00 a.m., although it may sometimes be earlier or later depending on conditions.
Best Time
Begin of May – begin of September: Considered the best time, suitable for taking scenic pictures of landscape with blue sky. Besides are ideal months for adventure lovers, who want to practice, mountaineering & other outdoor pursuits.
October – November (intermediate season): months in which sometimes after 2:00 pm you can have rain in the afternoon.
December – March (rainy season): mixed weather, sunny & cloudy, which means sometimes sunny during the day and rain in the afternoon. Take your precautions (wear rain clothes & poncho).
Weather
The weather in the mountains is highly variable. Even during the dry season (May–September), rain can occur due to the effects of global warming and climate change. Daytime temperatures can range from warm to very cold, and above 4,000 m, conditions may include rain, strong winds, or snow.
